Oaxaca (pronounced wa-HA-ca) is one of those cities that travel writers reach for superlatives to describe and then discover that superlatives are not enough. It is a city of ancient ruins and colourful colonial streets, of rooftop bars glowing at sunset, of markets that assault every sense in the best possible way — and of a food culture so extraordinary that people travel from across the world for no reason other than to eat here.
Before You Start — Getting Around Oaxaca
Oaxaca City itself is beautifully walkable. The historic centre is compact, the streets are flat, and most of the attractions in this itinerary are within comfortable walking distance of each other. You will not need a car for the city — save it for the day trips to Monte Alban and Hierve el Agua, both of which are best reached by guided tour or taxi.
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Day 1 — Arrival, the Zócalo and the Heart of the City
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The Zócalo en Oaxaca -
Your first afternoon in Oaxaca has one instruction: go directly to the Zócalo, find a table at one of the restaurants lining the square, order a cold beer (Modelo beer is our favourite -why not try one!) and do absolutely nothing useful for an hour.
This is not idle advice. The Zócalo — officially the Plaza de la Constitución — is the beating heart of Oaxaca and the best possible introduction to the city’s character. It is a place where bands set up without warning, balloon sellers weave between tables, children chase pigeons across the flagstones, and locals sit watching the afternoon pass with the unhurried pleasure of people who know exactly where they are. Sitting there on arrival tells you more about Oaxaca in thirty minutes than any guidebook can.
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Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption, Oaxaca The square is listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and flanked by the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption on its northern edge — construction began in 1535 and was finally consecrated in 1733 after several earthquakes and reconstructions. The interior is crafted in the Neoclassical style and is worth a brief visit before or after your drink.
Address: Av. de la Independencia 700, Centro
Evening — Calle Alcala and Rooftop Dinner
After settling in, spend your first evening walking the length of Calle Alcala — one of the oldest streets in Oaxaca, closed to vehicles since 1985 and lined with restaurants, cafes, galleries and shops that open onto the street in the warm evening air. The street runs from Templo de Santo Domingo at the northern end down to the Cathedral — about six unhurried blocks that are genuinely lovely at dusk.
For dinner, choose one of Oaxaca’s celebrated rooftop restaurants. One of the best surprises of our visit was discovering just how good the rooftop dining scene is here — at the end of a warm day, there is nothing better than a cocktail in hand as the sun drops behind the mountains.
Our recommendations for rooftop dining: Casa Crespo at Allende 107 for views over Templo de Santo Domingo (the same building also houses a cooking school and chocolate shop); Casa Oaxaca at Calle la Constitucion 104A — consistently voted among the top restaurants in the city for contemporary Oaxacan cuisine, best visited after 8 pm when the candles come out; and Gozobi Restaurant and Bar at Calle de Manuel Garcia Vigil 504 for good value Mexican cuisine with panoramic views at breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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Day 2 — Markets, Chocolate and the Santo Domingo Church
Day 2 is for the markets — and in Oaxaca, they’re an experience that goes well beyond shopping.
Morning — Benito Juárez Market and Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Start early at the Benito Juarez Market, Oaxaca’s oldest market, established in 1893 and covering an entire city block. Enter from any of the four surrounding streets — Las Casas, Flores Magon, Aldama or 20 de Noviembre — and give yourself time to get completely lost. The stalls sell everything from fresh produce and flowers to the famous Oaxacan chocolate used for mole sauce. The smell of that chocolate — earthly, rich and faintly sweet — was one of the most distinctive sensory memories of our entire trip. At the far end of the market, a BBQ area lets you choose your meat and have it cooked on the spot.
Opening hours: 10 am–8 pm Address: Las Casas S/N, Centro
Directly across the street is the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, which is equally unmissable for entirely different reasons. This is the home of Pasillo de Carnes Asadas — “meat alley” — where smoke from charcoal grills fills the air and vendors compete loudly for your business. Beyond the meats, you can buy mole paste to take home, fresh empanadas, local cheeses, pottery and handicrafts. Allow at least an hour in each market and arrive hungry.
Opening hours: 7 am–9 pm Address: 20 de Noviembre 512, Centro
Mid-morning — Templo de Santo Domingo
A short walk from the markets brings you to the most impressive church in Oaxaca and one of the finest examples of Mexican Baroque architecture anywhere in Mexico. The Templo de Santo Domingo was begun in 1575 and consecrated in 1611 — the carved facade alone, depicting the genealogical tree of the Dominican Order of Saint Dominic de Guzmán, is extraordinary. The interior is even more remarkable: every surface gilded, painted and carved in an excess of Baroque decoration that is genuinely dazzling.
Opening hours: Monday–Saturday 7 am–1 pm and 4 pm–7.30 pm. Sunday closes at 7 pm.
Address: Calle Macedonio Alcalá s/n, Centro
Afternoon — Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
Attached to the Santo Domingo complex at Plaza Santo Domingo is the Museo de Las Culturas de Oaxaca, which houses treasures recovered from Monte Alban, including jewellery, carved jade, gold ornaments and ceramics from Tomb 7. The restored colonial library alone is worth the visit, and the views over the Ethnobotanical Garden — the 2.32-acre garden designed by Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo and opened in 1998 — are beautiful from the upper floors.
Allow at least two hours.
Opening hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6.30 pm
Entrance fee: MXN $85 (approx. USD $4.50 / AUD $7). Free admission on Sundays.
Evening — Mezcal Tasting
Oaxaca is the mezcal capital of Mexico, and an evening visit to one of the city’s dedicated mezcalerías is one of the great cultural experiences the city offers. Mezcal is not tequila — it is made from a variety of agave plants, each producing a distinctly different spirit, and the better mezcalerías will walk you through the differences with a seriousness and knowledge that makes the tasting genuinely educational.
Our recommended mezcalerías: Mezcaloteca at Reforma #56 for a guided tasting experience with rare and artisanal producers; Los Amantes at Ignacio Allende 107 for a more relaxed bar atmosphere with an excellent mezcal list; and In Situ Mezcaleria at Jose Maria Morelos 511 for one of the most comprehensive mezcal selections in the city. Book ahead for Mezcaloteca as it fills up quickly.
Day 3 — Monte Alban
Clear your entire morning for Monte Alban. This is the single most important archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca and one of the most extraordinary in all of Mexico — and it deserves your full attention.
Morning — Monte Alban
Founded around 500 BC, Monte Alban became the political, cultural and ceremonial centre of the Zapotec world, achieving regional dominance for more than a millennium. Strategically built 400 metres above the Oaxaca Valley, the site encompasses more than 6 square kilometres, with a central ceremonial core marked by plazas, temples, tombs and carved monuments. At its height, the city housed between 17,000 and 25,000 people. In 1987, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
What makes Monte Alban genuinely different from other great Mesoamerican sites is that you can still climb it. At Chichen Itza, climbing has been banned since 2006. At Teotihuacan, access is restricted. At Monte Alban, you walk up the North and South Platforms — and the 360-degree view of the Oaxacan valleys from the top is the payoff for every step of the climb.
The site is also far more than a temple complex. It is a genuine ancient city with a Ball Court, the Great Plaza, the Palace, the remarkable Los Danzantes carved stone slabs depicting human figures in dynamic poses, and over 170 tombs spread across the site. Allow a minimum of three hours and ideally the whole morning.
The on-site museum at the entrance is included in your admission and is worth visiting either before you walk the site (for context) or after (as a quieter conclusion to the morning).
Book here for a half-day tour from Oaxaca
Practical information: Opening hours: daily 8 am–5 pm, last entry 4 pm.
Entrance fee: MXN $210 per person (approximately USD $11 / AUD $17) — note that the fee nearly doubled on January 1, 2026, so ignore older guides quoting lower figures.
Free entry for children under 13, seniors over 60, students, teachers and visitors with disabilities — bring a valid ID.
The most popular and economical transport option is the shuttle van from Hotel Rivera del Ángel at Mina 518 in the city centre. Round-trip tickets cost approximately MXN $80–100 (USD $4–5). Vans leave every 30 minutes from 8.30 am — buy your return ticket on arrival and confirm the last van time.
Critical practical tip: Monte Alban has almost no shade, and the sun at altitude is intense. Bring at least 1.5 litres of water per person, wear a hat, apply sunscreen before you arrive, and wear comfortable closed shoes. Sundays are the busiest days as Mexican nationals can visit for free — if possible, visit on a weekday.
Afternoon — Rest and the Ethnobotanical Garden
After a morning at altitude in the sun, your afternoon should be gentle. Return to the city, have lunch at one of the Zócalo restaurants, and consider a late afternoon visit to the Ethnobotanical Garden adjacent to the Santo Domingo complex. The garden opened in 1998 and showcases the extraordinary diversity of Oaxacan plant life — agave, cacti, copal trees and medicinal plants used since pre-Hispanic times — across 2.32 acres. Tours run at set times and are guided only.
Evening — Origen Restaurant
For a special dinner on Day 3, book a table at Origen at Callejon Hidalgo #820 — one of the most celebrated restaurants in the city, renowned for its use of the freshest local ingredients and its creative approach to traditional Oaxacan cuisine. This is the splurge dinner of the trip and is worth every peso.
Day 4 — Hierve el Agua and the Oaxacan Food Experience
Day 4 takes you out of the city for the morning to one of the most visually extraordinary natural sites in Mexico, before returning for an afternoon dedicated entirely to Oaxaca’s legendary food culture.
Morning — Hierve el Agua
Seventy kilometres southeast of Oaxaca City, perched on the edge of a dramatic cliff above the valley, Hierve el Agua is unlike anything else you will see in Mexico. The name translates as “the water boils”, and when you first see it from the path above, the formations do appear to be a frozen waterfall mid-cascade. In reality, they are petrified waterfalls created by mineral-rich spring water cascading over a cliff edge for thousands of years, with calcium carbonate and magnesium deposits forming white rock cascades resembling frozen waterfalls.
At the top of the formations are natural rock pools fed by the mineral springs — and you can swim in them, floating above a 200-metre drop with panoramic views of the valley below. It is one of the most surreal and beautiful swimming experiences in Mexico. The water temperature is a comfortable 22–27°C year-round, and there are two main formations — Grande and Chico — connected by a hiking trail that takes approximately 90 minutes to walk in full.
Most tours from Oaxaca pair Hierve el Agua with the Tule Tree, Teotitlán del Valle weaving village and a mezcal distillery visit, creating a comprehensive valley experience at a total cost of USD $35–65. We recommend booking this combination tour — it is an excellent full morning and gives you a broader picture of the Oaxacan valley. Book this tour here
Practical information: Entrance fees are MXN $50–70 per person (approximately USD $3–4 / AUD $5), cash only — there are no ATMs at the site. Bring pesos.
Wear your swimsuit under your clothes, bring a towel, water shoes, sunscreen and insect repellent. Arrive as early as possible — the site is typically packed with tour groups by 9 am.
Afternoon — The Food of Oaxaca
Return to the city for an afternoon dedicated to eating your way through Oaxaca’s extraordinary culinary tradition. Oaxaca is a state with seven distinct moles, a chocolate tradition that traces back to pre-Columbian markets, a mezcal culture that long predates the spirit’s international fame, and a market system that functions as the living infrastructure of daily life.
The tlayuda is the dish that defines Oaxacan street food — a large, crispy corn tortilla topped with black bean paste, Oaxacan cheese, and your choice of meat or vegetables. Find one at a market stall and eat it standing up. The mole negro — dark, complex, built on dried chillies, chocolate and dozens of other ingredients — is the dish that defines Oaxacan cooking at its most ambitious. Order it at a sit-down restaurant with time to appreciate it properly.
For the most adventurous eaters: chapulines (toasted grasshoppers seasoned with lime, salt and chilli) are sold at every market stall and are genuinely delicious — crunchy, salty and faintly smoky. They are one of the great edible souvenirs of Oaxaca and considerably less alarming to eat than they sound.
For dinner, Casa Crespo at Allende 107 offers a cooking class earlier in the day if you want to learn how to make mole or tlayuda yourself, with rooftop dinner afterwards — an excellent Day 4 afternoon-into-evening combination.
Day 5 — The Colours of Oaxaca and Farewell
Your final day is for wandering, shopping and the quieter pleasures of a city you now know well enough to move through with confidence.
Morning — Calle Alcala and the Santo Domingo Garden
Spend your last morning walking Calle Alcala at a pace that allows you to actually stop — at the ceramic shops selling Oaxacan black clay pottery, the textile galleries showcasing hand-woven rugs from Teotitlán del Valle, the chocolate shops where you can watch cocoa beans being ground into paste on traditional stone mills. This is where the best quality Oaxacan craft shopping happens, and it is worth taking your time.
The Day Trips You Didn’t Do
If your schedule allows, Day 5 is also the moment to consider the Ocotlán de Morelos day trip — a cultural excursion that takes in Santo Tomas Jalieza (a small community dedicated to the ancient pre-Hispanic waist loom textile technique) and San Martín Tilcajete (famous for its vibrantly painted carved wooden figures known as Alebrijes). It is a completely different side of Oaxaca from the city itinerary and one that rewards those with the time for it.
Final Lunch — Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Return to Mercado 20 de Noviembre for a final lunch at the market — sit at one of the communal tables in the food hall and order the dishes you didn’t manage to try on Day 2. This is Oaxaca at its most local and most generous: enormous portions, minimal prices, and the cheerful noise of a market doing exactly what markets have done in this city for centuries.
A Final Note
Leaving Oaxaca is harder than you expect. The city has a way of attaching itself to you — through its colours, its smells, its food, its extraordinary history and the particular warmth of the people who live there. We arrived not knowing quite what to expect and left knowing we had found one of our favourite cities in Mexico. That is a statement we do not make lightly — and it is the best endorsement we can give it.
Come with an appetite, leave with a bag full of chocolate and mezcal, and give yourself five full days. Oaxaca will do the rest.
Where to Stay in Oaxaca
For a 5-day stay, we recommend basing yourself in the historic centre (Centro Histórico) for proximity to everything in this itinerary.
Budget: We stayed in a private double room at Hostel Azul Cielo — a popular choice for couples and solo travellers alike, within easy walking distance of all the sights, with a well-equipped kitchen, excellent wifi and a tour desk that organised our Monte Alban tour and onward travel to Puerto Escondido. Outstanding value.
Comfort: Suites Parador Santo Domingo at Macedonio Alcala 804, located 200 metres from Templo de Santo Domingo, offers two swimming pools, free parking, free Wi-Fi, and spacious family rooms — one of the best-located properties in the city.
Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Oaxaca
Is Oaxaca safe for tourists in 2026?
Oaxaca carries a US State Department Level 2 advisory — “Exercise Increased Caution” — the same rating given to France, Germany, the United Kingdom, Spain and Italy. Nobody cancels their trip to Paris over a Level 2 advisory, and you shouldn’t cancel Oaxaca over one either. The crime that pushes Oaxaca state to Level 2 is concentrated in specific rural areas and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region, hundreds of kilometres from where tourists spend their time. When we visited, we felt completely safe wandering the Zócalo, the markets and through the streets of the historic centre at all hours. The standard common-sense precautions that apply in any major city apply here — keep bags zipped in crowded markets, use taxis rather than walking home late at night, and keep your phone in your pocket rather than in your hand on the street.
When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?
October through April is the most comfortable time to visit, with dry weather and cooler temperatures ideal for walking the city and visiting outdoor sites like Monte Alban. June is the wettest month, and May is the hottest. The Day of the Dead festival (Día de Muertos, November 1–2) is a magical but extremely busy time — book accommodation months ahead if your visit coincides. May, June and September offer the lowest costs, with hotel prices 30–45% below peak season rates, so there is a genuine trade-off between price and weather worth considering.
How many days should I allow in Oaxaca?
We stayed five days and four nights — and we would not have wanted less. Four days is the minimum to cover the city properly, including Monte Alban and squeeze in Hierve el Agua. Five days give you breathing room to wander without rushing and to properly explore the food scene. If you have more time, the day trips to Ocotlán de Morelos and the artisan villages could easily fill a sixth day.
Do I need a visa to visit Mexico?
Most nationalities — including Australian, US, UK, Canadian and EU passport holders — do not require a visa for tourist visits to Mexico of up to 180 days. Always check the current requirements for your specific nationality before travelling, as regulations can change. Check your visa requirements here
What language is spoken in Oaxaca?
Spanish is the primary language, and English is widely spoken in the tourist areas of the historic centre, hotels, restaurants and tour companies. In the markets and smaller local restaurants, a few words of Spanish will be warmly appreciated — “¿cuánto cuesta?” (how much does it cost?), “gracias” (thank you) and “una cerveza, por favor” (one beer, please) will take you a long way.
What should I wear in Oaxaca?
Light, breathable clothing is recommended year-round. For visiting churches and religious sites, covered shoulders and knees are respectful. Comfortable walking shoes are essential — the historic centre’s cobbled streets are charming but uneven. For Monte Alban, wear a hat, apply sunscreen before you arrive, and bring more water than you think you need. For Hierve el Agua, wear your swimsuit under your clothes and pack a towel and water shoes.
How do I get to Oaxaca?
Aeropuerto de Oaxaca (Xoxocotlan Airport) is located 8 kilometres south of the city and receives direct domestic flights from Mexico City, Guadalajara and other major Mexican cities.
ADO buses connect Oaxaca efficiently with Mexico City (approximately 6 hours, MXN $450–650) and Puerto Escondido (approximately 6.5 hours, MXN $380–520).
We travelled from Puebla by ADO bus — a comfortable 4 hours 40 minutes — and found it the most relaxed and scenic way to arrive.
Is the walking trail to Monte Alban safe?
There is a 9km walking trail from Oaxaca to Monte Alban, but recent walker reports have mentioned robberies along the trail, and that is the main reason we do not recommend it. Use the shuttle van from Hotel Rivera del Ángel, book a guided tour, or take a taxi instead.
Can I drink the tap water in Oaxaca?
No — stick to bottled or filtered water throughout your visit. Bottled water is inexpensive and available everywhere. Most hotels and hostels provide filtered water dispensers. Avoid ice in drinks from street stalls to be safe.
Should I tip in Oaxaca?
Tipping is standard practice in Mexico. At restaurants, 10–15% is customary for good service. For guided tours, a tip of MXN $100–200 (approximately USD $6–12 / AUD $9–18) per person per day is appreciated. At mezcalerías, rounding up the bill is a welcome gesture.
What Does It Cost to Visit Oaxaca? A 2026 Budget Guide
Oaxaca is genuinely one of the best value destinations in Mexico — extraordinary food, world-class archaeological sites and a beautiful colonial city, all at prices that will pleasantly surprise travellers arriving from Europe or Australia.
Attraction Entrance Fees
Monte Alban entrance fee: MXN $210 per person (approximately USD $11 / AUD $17), open daily 8 am–5 pm, last entry 4 pm. Note that the fee nearly doubled on January 1, 2026 — ignore older guides quoting lower figures.
Free entry for children under 13, seniors over 60, students, teachers and visitors with disabilities — bring a valid ID.
Hierve el Agua entrance fee: MXN $50–70 per person (approximately USD $3–4 / AUD $5), plus a MXN $20 community road fee. Cash only — there are no ATMs at the site.
Museo de Las Culturas de Oaxaca: MXN $85 (approximately USD $5 / AUD $8). Free on Sundays.
Templo de Santo Domingo, Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, Ethnobotanical Garden (guided tour): free to low cost. The Zócalo, Calle Alcalá, and all markets: free to enter.
Day Tours
The Hierve el Agua full-day combination tour — including the Tule Tree, Teotitlán del Valle weaving village and a mezcal distillery — costs approximately USD $35–65 per person, including transport and entrance fees.
Monte Alban guided tours from Oaxaca City, including transport and a certified guide, cost approximately MXN $300–600 (USD $18–35 / AUD $28–54) per person. The shuttle van without a guide costs approximately MXN $80–100 (USD $5 / AUD $8) return.
Food and Dining
Oaxaca’s dining scene ranges from street-side market stalls to world-class tasting menus. A mid-range dinner for two costs around USD $43. For context: a tlayuda or bowl of mole at a market stall costs MXN $50–80 (approximately USD $3–5 / AUD $5–8).
A sit-down lunch at a mid-range restaurant runs MXN $150–300 per person (approximately USD $9–18 / AUD $14–28).
A rooftop dinner with cocktails at Casa Oaxaca (Constitución 104-A) or Origen (Callejon Hidalgo #820) will run MXN $400–700 per person (approximately USD $24–41 / AUD $37–63)
Accommodation
Accommodation in Oaxaca ranges from approximately USD $18 per night for a hostel private room to USD $62 per night for a 3-star hotel, rising to around USD $157 per night for luxury properties. All of the hotels recommended in this itinerary sit in the USD $45–100 per night range for a private double with ensuite — outstanding value for a UNESCO World Heritage city centre location.
Getting Around
Taxis within Oaxaca City charge approximately MXN $40–60 (USD $2–3.50) per ride — remarkably affordable. For most of this itinerary, you will be walking, as the historic centre is compact and pedestrian-friendly. Budget USD $5–10 per day for all local transport comfortably.
Budget vs Splurge — What Will Your 5 Days Cost?
For a budget-conscious five days — hostel private room, market meals, shuttle van to Monte Alban and a group tour to Hierve el Agua — daily costs of USD $40–60 per person cover accommodation, food, transport and activities comfortably. Five days all-in (excluding flights): approximately USD $200–300 per person (AUD $310–460).
For a mid-range experience — comfortable hotel, mix of market lunches and rooftop dinners, guided Monte Alban tour and Hierve el Agua combination day trip — daily costs fall between USD $80–150 per person. Five days all-in (excluding flights): approximately USD $400–750 per person (AUD $615–1,160).
For a splurge experience — boutique hotel in the historic centre, dinner at Origen, private mezcal tasting at Mezcaloteca, private guide for Monte Alban — daily spending of USD $200–350 covers everything at the luxury end. Five days all-in (excluding flights): approximately USD $1,000–1,750 per person (AUD $1,540–2,700). By any standard, Oaxaca is an exceptional value. Even travelling in genuine comfort and eating at the city’s best restaurants every night, five days here costs a fraction of what a comparable cultural trip in Europe would run — and the food is better.
One Practical Note on Cash
The most common issues for tourists in Oaxaca involve overcharged taxi fares and restaurant over-pricing. Always agree on a taxi fare before you get in, check your bill before paying, and use ATMs for the best exchange rates rather than currency exchange offices. ATMs typically provide rates within 1–2% of the official rate, while currency exchange offices charge 5–8% commission. Hierve el Agua is cash only — bring sufficient pesos before you leave the city.
You can now read this article offline and get GPS-guided travel directions to the attractions featured in this article by downloading the GPSmyCity app on iTunes App Store or Google Play. Click the link below to access the article.
General Information on Visiting Oaxaca
Where is Oaxaca, Mexico
The state of Oaxaca is located in the southeastern area of Mexico, and its capital is Oaxaca de Juarez.
Oaxaca is 463 km from Mexico City and 339 km from Puebla, a popular tourist destination for travellers and a stopover on the way from Mexico City.
During our time in Mexico, we have visited many pretty colonial cities such as Morelia, Tepoztlan, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato and Guadalajara.
The state of Oaxaca is home to some very special beach destinations. One in particular is Mazunte, a turtle and yoga hotspot located 265 km south of Oaxaca City. It is worth a visit after you have spent time in Oaxaca.
More Top Things To Do in Oaxaca City
General Travel Information for Visiting Oaxaca
Flight Deals to Oaxaca
Find the cheapest flights with Skyscanner our ‘go-to’ when we are researching flights and booking them.
Bus Travel Around Mexico
We have travelled all over Mexico by ADO buses. For the latest ticket prices and schedules, click here.
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Wise Card
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Where should you go next? If you want a beach vacation, why not head to Zihuatanejo?
If you want a mix of beaches and Mayan ruins, we recommend visiting the Yucatan Peninsula.
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