Antarctica Expedition Cruise — The Complete Guide: What to Expect, How to Choose and Everything We Learned

Our Captain had a telltale sign. Every time the Drake Passage was going to be rough, he would give a small giggle at the briefing as we set sail. We knew what that giggle meant. We had the Drake Shake.

It did not matter. Nothing about Antarctica mattered in the way we expected it to matter. Not the cold, not the seasickness, not the weeks of careful preparation. Because nothing — not a single book, documentary or conversation with someone who had been there — prepares you for the moment you first set eyes on this continent. Our Expedition Leader Florence Kuyper told us this on the very first night on board, and she was absolutely right. Antarctica simply knocks your socks off.

We travelled with Ponant Luxury Cruises on The Great Adventure — 15 nights from Montevideo in Uruguay to Ushuaia in Argentina via South Georgia Island, the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula. We spent time with 30,000-strong colonies of King Penguins, watched minke whales surface beside our Zodiac, stood on an ice shelf drinking French champagne at sunset, and crossed the Drake Passage in conditions that had the ship pitching at angles we would rather not describe.

We came back completely changed. The polar bug, as Florence calls it, bit us hard.

This is our complete guide to Antarctica expedition cruising — everything we wished we had known before we went, written from fifteen nights of personal experience at the bottom of the world.

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What’s In This Guide

1. Frequently Asked Questions — Antarctica Cruise
2. How to Choose Your Antarctica Cruise Operator
3. Antarctica Packing List – Complete Guide – clothing, health, photography and technical and documents
4. Weather en route
5. Our Antarctica Journey — Day by Day
6. Life on Board Le Lyrial
7. Places We Visited
8. Wildlife We Experienced
9. Booking Your Antarctica Cruise

Frequently Asked Questions — Antarctica Expedition Cruise

Is an Antarctica expedition cruise worth it?
Without question — it is the most extraordinary travel experience of our lives, and we have been travelling the world together for decades. Antarctica is unlike anywhere else on earth. There are no cities, no hotels, no shops — only the raw, pristine wilderness of the seventh continent, the wildlife that has never learned to fear humans and landscapes of such overwhelming beauty that you will find yourself standing in silence trying to absorb it. We came home completely changed. Every single person on our cruise said the same thing. Yes. It is worth it.

How much does an Antarctica expedition cruise cost?
Costs vary significantly based on the cruise line, ship size, cabin type, itinerary length and time of year. As a guide:

Prices include all meals, lectures, Zodiac excursions and, in Ponant’s case, complimentary drinks and parkas. Wi-Fi packages, spa treatments and speciality wine events are typically extra.

When can you visit Antarctica?
The expedition season runs from mid-November to late March. December and January are widely considered the best months — long days with up to 20+ hours of light, warmer temperatures and calmer seas. November is the earliest in the season with the chance to be first on untouched land but harsher weather. February and March offer calmer Drake crossings and penguin chicks beginning to emerge, but the season is winding down.

What is the Drake Passage like?
The Drake Passage is where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet between Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands — 800km of open water that can produce either the Drake Lake (a calm, glassy crossing) or the Drake Shake (rough seas with swells of 5–7 metres). We had the Drake Shake. Yes, it was rough. Duncan missed a dinner. Jane found her sea legs by day two. The Ponant ships have the latest stabiliser technology and are built specifically for these conditions. Would we do it again? Absolutely. At a moment’s notice.

How do I prevent seasickness on an Antarctica cruise?
Talk to your doctor before travelling and consider: prescription seasickness patches (applied behind the ear 8–12 hours before sailing), Stugeron or Kwells tablets, acupressure wristbands and ginger in any form — sweets, tea or supplements. Duncan’s remedy on board was sliced green apple and a dry biscuit recommended by the Ponant restaurant crew. The ship’s medical centre carries seasickness medication. Choose a cabin in the middle of the ship on a lower deck — Deck 3 amidships is generally the most stable position.

What is the best Antarctica cruise operator?
There are approximately 15 operators each season. Key considerations are ship size — only 100 passengers can be onshore at any one time under IAATO regulations, so smaller ships mean more time ashore — itinerary, price point and the quality of the expedition team. We chose Ponant after extensive research. Other highly regarded operators include Hurtigruten, Silversea, Quark Expeditions, Aurora Expeditions and Lindblad Expeditions. We strongly recommend only booking with IAATO-registered operators. Compare current reviews and itineraries on Cruise Critic.

How long is a typical Antarctica cruise?
The shortest option is a 6-day fly-cruise — fly into King George Island and cruise to Ushuaia or vice versa. The most common cruise length is 10–12 days. We did 17 nights, which gave us South Georgia Island in addition to the Peninsula — and South Georgia alone was worth the extra days. If Antarctica is your #1 bucket list destination, do not shortchange yourself on time.

Do you need a visa for Antarctica?
Antarctica itself has no visa requirements as it belongs to no country. However, you will need to check visa requirements for your departure and arrival ports — typically Ushuaia (Argentina) and/or Montevideo (Uruguay). Australian passport holders generally have visa-free access to both.

How do you get to the departure point?
Most cruises depart from Ushuaia in Argentina — the southernmost city in the world. Fly from Australia via Buenos Aires (typically 24–28 hours total travel). Some itineraries depart from Montevideo in Uruguay or Punta Arenas in Chile. Fly-cruise options depart from Punta Arenas with a short flight to King George Island. Allow at least one full day before embarkation for rest and acclimatisation.

Is Antarctica safe to visit?
Yes — with the right operator. The risk is in the remoteness rather than any inherent danger. The Drake Passage can be rough, but modern expedition ships are built to withstand it. IAATO regulations are strict and stringently enforced. The expedition team and Captain are highly experienced professionals. The main rule is to follow the expedition team’s instructions at all times — particularly regarding wildlife distances and Zodiac safety procedures.

Is Antarctica suitable for older travellers?
Absolutely — it is arguably the ideal Baby Boomer and over-60 bucket list destination. The cruise itself is comfortable and well-staffed. Zodiac landings require stepping in and out of inflatable boats — manageable for most people with some advance preparation. Shore excursions are self-paced with no pressure to cover specific distances. The French lady on our cruise was in her 90s on her 23rd Ponant voyage. Age is no barrier whatsoever.

What wildlife will I see in Antarctica?
More than you can imagine. On our 17-night journey we encountered: King, Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie penguins in colonies of up to 100,000 birds, Weddell seals, Antarctic fur seals and southern elephant seals, humpback whales, minke whales, sperm whales, sooty albatross, southern giant petrels, Antarctic terns, brown skua birds and snow petrels. The wildlife in Antarctica has no natural fear of humans — penguins will walk up to you, seals will open one eye and go back to sleep, and whales will surface beside your Zodiac. It is unlike any wildlife experience on earth.

Can you fly to Antarctica instead of cruising?
Qantas operates scenic flyovers to Antarctica from Australian cities during the summer season — a full-day flight that passes over the continent without landing. For those with severe seasickness concerns or limited time, this is an option, but you do not set foot on the continent, and the experience is fundamentally different. The fly-cruise option is the best alternative to a full expedition cruise — you fly to King George Island and cruise from there, avoiding the Drake Passage.

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR ANTARCTICA CRUISE OPERATOR

How to Choose Your Antarctica Cruise — What Really Matters

After researching every operator offering Antarctica expedition cruises, here is what we believe matters most:

Ship size is the single most important factor
IAATO regulations allow a maximum of 100 passengers ashore at any one time. A ship carrying 500 passengers means you get significantly less time on land — some passengers on large ships report spending only 2 hours ashore per day. We chose a ship with a maximum capacity of 203 passengers, which gave us excellent rotation time. Some ultra-small ships carry just 50–100 passengers for maximum time ashore.

The expedition team makes or breaks the experience
We were fortunate to have Florence Kuyper as our Expedition Leader — she had been travelling to Antarctica since 2004 and was Base Leader at the British Port Lockroy station in 2012–13. The quality of the naturalists, historians and expedition guides determines how much you understand and appreciate what you are seeing. Ask your cruise operator about the qualifications and experience of their expedition team before booking.

IAATO membership is non-negotiable
Only book with an operator registered with IAATO — the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. This ensures your cruise follows strict environmental protocols, landing procedures and wildlife regulations. Non-IAATO operators exist, but we would not recommend travelling with them.

Itinerary — South Georgia is worth the extra days and cost
The basic Antarctica cruise covers the Peninsula and South Shetland Islands. An extended itinerary adding South Georgia Island — also known as the Serengeti of the South — adds several days and high cost but delivers an entirely different experience: the largest concentration of King Penguins on earth, Shackleton’s grave at Grytviken and landscapes of breathtaking mountain and fjord beauty. If budget allows, include South Georgia. You will not regret it.

All-inclusive pricing matters more than headline price
Some operators quote a low headline price then charge separately for drinks, excursions, Zodiac tours and parkas. Ponant’s pricing included all meals, all wine and champagne, all Zodiac excursions and the iconic red parkas to keep. Always confirm exactly what is included before comparing prices across operators.

💡 Jane’s Tip: We attended a Ponant presentation in Sydney 10 months before our cruise — this is how we became confident in our choice. Most premium operators hold events in major Australian cities. If you are considering an Antarctica cruise in the next 12–18 months it is worth attending one of these presentations. Contact Ponant or your preferred operator directly to find upcoming events.

ANTARCTICA PACKING LIST — COMPLETE GUIDE

Antarctica Packing List — Everything You Actually Need

This is the most specialised packing list in travel. Get it wrong, and you will be cold, wet and miserable in one of the most remote environments on earth. Get it right, and you will be comfortable in conditions that go from perfectly beautiful to bitterly cold in minutes.

What Ponant Provides (check with your operator)

• Thick waterproof red parkas — provided and yours to keep
• Knee-high rubber boots — provided for shore excursions
• Lifejackets for Zodiac excursions
• Biosecurity cleaning equipment

 Clothing — The Layering System

The key to staying warm in Antarctica is layers — not one thick jacket but multiple thinner layers that trap air and regulate temperature.

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Photography & Tech

💡 Jane’s Camera Tip: When returning from cold landings, wrap your camera gear in towels or blankets immediately. The temperature change from -4°C outside to 21°C inside the ship can cause condensation damage. We kept our gear in Ziploc bags — take the camera out, snap, put it back. It is awkward but your gear will thank you.

Health & Medical

Documents & Practicalities

⚠️ Travel Insurance is Non-Negotiable for Antarctica
Medical evacuation from Antarctica costs upwards of USD $100,000. Standard travel insurance does not cover expedition cruising or remote environments. You must have a policy that specifically covers:

• Medical evacuation from remote locations
• Expedition and adventure activities
• Cruise cancellation and interruption
• Trip cancellation for any reason

 

 

Weather En Route

Temperatures in Montevideo were around 21 degrees C the day we left. By the time we arrived in South Georgia, we were experiencing 1 degree C and snow and rain.

Sunrise during this time was around 04.27 and sunset at 19.53 hours.

As we set sail towards the Antarctic Peninsula, temperatures dropped slightly to -1 degree C, and winds had picked up to 32 km/h.

On arrival at the Peninsula, temperatures dropped further to -4 degrees C with sunrise at 03.42 and sunset at 21.15.

As we crossed the Drake Passage, the winds had picked up to around 60 km/h. Yes, we had the Drake Shake.

Sailing into Ushuaia, the wind speed was 25 km/h, and temperatures hovered around 9 degrees C.

Antarctica Cruise: What Is It Like on Board for 15 Nights

The Smoothest Embarkation Ever – Montevideo in Uruguay

We have only experienced a small number of cruises in our years of travel, but the embarkation with Ponant was the most relaxed ever.  On arrival at the Port of Montevideo (our taxi could enter the Port and drop us off next to Le Lyrial, our Ponant Cruise Ship) we were welcomed by Cruise Director Virginie Depale.  Our bags were whisked away to our cabins by her super-efficient team.

Walking up the gangplank, Captain Remi Genevaz and Guest Relations Manager Johanna Stansfield welcomed us on board whilst photographers snapped away. We felt like royalty.

Our magnetic boarding card was handed to us, which is the key to our cabin and our credit card on board if we wanted to make any purchases from the Ponant Shop or at the Spa. It is also the card that replaces our identity documents and is used for disembarking and embarking on our expedition tours.

A welcome cold aromatic towel offered by the Spa team refreshed us whilst we were led away to our luxurious 5-star double room.

First Impressions:

5 Star Luxury with a capital L. The interior is tastefully designed in soothing blue and cream colours. A pillow menu offering medium non-allergy pillows, soft, very soft, memory foam flat pillows or ergonomic lay open on the bed.

Other facilities:

• 30 video-on-demand services on a flat-screen TV.
• A music player/alarm clock to which you can attach your iPod, iPhone or USB stick too
• Nespresso Coffee Machine
• A complimentary Minibar was stocked daily (interestingly, none of us used the complimentary Minibar; this is the first minibar that we have come across that was free.  Guests onboard also commented on the fact that they did not use it either, preferring to go to one of the bars instead).
• Two Evian water bottles and a Badoit sparkling water replenished daily.
• Luxurious Hermes toiletries.

Other services:

• Laundry services – at a small fee
• 24-hour room service (perfect if you wanted to sleep in on any of the days; you could order breakfast after the restaurants had ceased breakfast service or even during breakfast hours)
• Air conditioning
• Personal safe
• Electricity onboard 220V (European Standard) 110V North American standard
• Bathrobes and slippers
• Hairdryers
• Doctor and Nurse available onboard
• Special dietary requirements are catered for

On Board:

 

• The Yacht Spa offers facial and body treatments, hair care treatments, manicures and pedicures, waxing, makeup, and hammam. Ponant Yacht Spa uses Sothys products.
• The Gym is equipped with treadmills, bikes and a Kinesis weight training machine.
• There is a small plunge pool on Deck 6 and outdoor sunbeds.
• Morning Gym Classes as per the daily program.
• Library
• Board games
• Photographers capture every moment – you can purchase a video/DVD and photos from them

WiFi

Wifi is available onboard at no extra cost; now packages are available for purchase. We were impressed with the strength and speed of the Wifi on board.

Restaurants and Bars:

• Gastronomic Restaurant La Celeste Deck 2 open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
• Restaurant La Comete Grill Deck 6 open for breakfast, lunch, and Dinner
• Bar Deck 3
• Observatory Bar Deck 6
• Outer Deck 7
• Fine Wines, Wine Tasting and Wine Pairing special events are available at an extra cost

 

Our Ship: Le Lyrial

Passengers on Board Our Great Adventure: 203

Guest Decks: 6

For those of you who like statistics:

Length: 142m

Width: 18 m

Draught: 4,70 meters

Cruising Speed: 14 knots

Engine: 2 x 2300kw

Gross tonnage: 10992

Classification: USPHS, US Coast Guard Rules, Bureau VERITAS Comfort and noise Class 1, Cleanship, Very Star Hull Mach, Ice Class 1C

The Rooms:

The suites and staterooms have been decorated by French interior designer Jean-Philippe Nuel.

Le Lyrial offers a flexible capacity from 112 to 122 suites and staterooms.

How did we choose our room:

Our budget did not run to the staterooms and suites on Deck 4 and higher.  When we travelled on our reposition cruise from Spain to Panama, we were given the advice to choose a room on the same level as the Medical Centre.  That turned out to be great advice for that ship.  By the time we came to booking, there were not too many rooms left, and as it happened we were on the same level as the Medical Centre, Deck 3 and right beside it at the front of the ship. After a few nights of rough weather that we experienced, we believe Deck 3 is still good to be located on, but a room in the middle of the ship might have been smoother.

 

Life on Board – A Taster Of What You Will Experience

What Happens on the First Night On Board Le Lyrial Sailing Out of Montevideo, Uruguay

4.00 pm: Embarkation

4.00 pm: Welcome Drinks on Deck 3 and Deck 6.  The beginning of many glasses of Champagne during the cruise.

6.00 pm: Life on Board Talk by Virginie Depale, Cruise Director

6.30 pm:  Life Drill Compulsory

7.00 pm: Set sail for South Georgia

7.00 pm: Live music on Deck 3 in the Main Lounge

7.30 pm: Dinner Buffet in La Comete on Deck 6 or à la carte at La Celeste on Deck 2.

9.00 pm: Live Music Deck 3

9.00 pm: Documentary on Oceans  Theatre Deck 4

Each night a daily journal is delivered to your room with the following day’s activities.

 

A Typical Day at Sea

We won’t go through day by day what we did, but we will share with you our first full day at sea. There were four full days at sea before we first went ashore on South Georgia Island.

07.00 am – 09.30 am: Breakfast at either restaurant

07. 45 am: Stretching classes held in the Theatre on Deck 4

08.45 am – 10.00 am:  Your free parka distribution takes place.

11. 45 am:  A discussion on the proposed Itinerary and meeting with the expedition and naturalists team

12.30 pm –  14. 00 pm: Lunch

2.00 pm:  Ship Tour with the Cruise Director

3. 00 pm: Lecture on Board – Sea Birds of the Southern Ocean by naturalist Samuel Blanc.

5.00 pm: Salsa dancing with the dancers of Le Lyrial Main Lounge Deck 3

6.00 – 8.00 pm: Live music deck 3

7.00 pm – 9.00 pm: Dinner

9.30 pm: Musical Show in the main lounge

Gala Evenings

A Gala Dinner was held on our 2nd full day at sea. Evening wear is expected for the Gala Dinner.

Ladies wore cocktail dresses, knee-length or full-length, or smart dresses or pantsuits.

Some men wore business suits, and some wore formal dinner suits.

The Captain’s Dinner was held later on the cruise, where the dress code was white.  This was a bit more of a relaxed atmosphere where if you had a white outfit or a bit of white, e.g., a scarf or shawl, you could wear that.

 

Parkas and Rubber Boots

Ponant provides complimentary thick, warm waterproof red jackets which must be worn at all times when ashore. They were also a necessity when we were sailing, when we were up on deck viewing icebergs or land.  The wind could be extremely strong, and at times it was bitterly cold.

They also provided rubber knee-high boots. Mandatory biosecurity cleaning took place each time we went ashore and when we returned.  The morning we were given the rubber boots, we had to take all of our outerwear garments to be vacuumed, especially those with Velcro straps.  A secondary cleaning took place before we set foot on the Antarctic Peninsula.

Briefings

There is a Mandatory lifeboat drill just after embarkation on the first day, and everyone must attend.

A mandatory IAATO and Zodiac briefing took place on day 3.

If you don’t attend the briefing, you don’t get to go on the excursions.

Lifejackets for the excursions were handed out at the end of the briefing. They are all one size and must be worn during the excursions.

As well, compulsory briefings were held prior to visiting South Georgia Island and the Antarctic Peninsula.

Zodiac Landings

All passengers were assigned a group, i.e. Pink, Black, Yellow and Violet, and at any one time, only a certain number of people were allowed ashore.

We were also briefed on the right way to enter the Zodiac from the rear of the ship and how to alight safely when arriving on land.

The Expedition Team goes ashore first to check the landing site, the terrain and how slippery it could be.  If the right conditions are not met, there will be a Plan B.  Sometimes during the latter part of the season there may be too many elephant seals for landing and the landing will be aborted.

On Shore Notes and Regulations

When you are onshore, you have to keep 5m away from Penguins. You will also notice a ‘penguin highway’.  Penguins create pathways leading from the water to their colonies.  You are instructed to give way to Penguins on these pathways. If penguins come towards you, you are required to stand still. If the penguins are moulting, you will need to stay further away than the 5m distance as they are starving and energy depleted.

It is required to keep a distance of 15m away from fur seals and elephant seals. At this time of the year, it is breeding season, and the male elephant seals are defending their harems. Do not run away from them, but stand your ground, and make yourself appear bigger than they are.

In some areas, we had to zig-zag carefully in between the seals.  There would always be a team expedition member close by to ward off aggressive testosterone-laden males.  A bite from one of these seals requires antibiotics.  We have heard that later on in the season sometimes zodiac landings have to be aborted due to the number of elephant seals on the shore.

It is cute to see the weaners nursing, but you do need to be careful.  You will also see that some of the bull elephants look as if they have been badly beaten. You will understand why when you see a pair fighting.  You would not want to be in their way when they roll.

Places We Visited

As we mentioned before, the itinerary can change at a moment’s notice depending on the weather conditions.

The Island of South Georgia – also known as the Serengeti of the South or A Jewel in the Southern Ocean

After four full days at sea, with some days experiencing 5m swells, we were ready to get off and explore the Island of South Georgia. During our lectures on board, we learnt so much about the Antarctic Explorer Ernest Shackleton and his adventures, and we were keen to visit his final resting place at Grytviken. Captain James Cook, who discovered Australia, circumnavigated the island in 1775 and called it the Isle of Georgia after the British Monarch of that time, King George III. Not only did we learn about Shackleton’s adventures, but we also enjoyed talks and documentaries on other Antarctic explorers.

Sadly, seal hunting began in 1786 and continued through the 19th century.  The Island became a base for whaling in the 20th century, which lasted until the 1960s.

Before we were able to go ashore, we had a briefing with Sarah Lurcock, who was the Director of the South Georgia Museum, about South Georgia and the natural habitat restoration.

Our first landing was at Grytviken, which was established as the first whaling station by Norwegian Carl Anton Larsen in 1904. The station closed down in December 1966.

Even before our landing, we could hear the grunts of the elephant seals in the distance. There is a special sensation when you first see land in this region.  Even more so, knowing that we were to set foot on a continent so remote from anywhere else in the world, that very few had visited.  Just to walk among the wildlife that are not wary of us but curious to know what these creatures are in their thick red jackets.  They feel no fear towards us.

On landing, we witnessed our first large elephant seals, fur seals and King Penguins. We also saw sooty albatross and brown skua birds. We could also smell the Penguin Poo! Did we get used to the aroma? Of course, I think we would have been worried if we had not.  The fur seals would lazily open one eye and gaze up at us and then continue napping.  Penguins walked in front of us, behind us and crossed our paths, not giving us another glance.

Close to Ernest Shackleton’s grave were King Penguins huddled together in the cold wind and sleeting rain.

Shackleton was buried there, at the wish of his wife and family, after he had suffered a heart attack at sea in 1922.  Shackleton had arrived at Grytviken after the vessel Endurance was damaged in 1915.  He returned to the Antarctic Peninsula to rescue his remaining crewmen. If you have time when you are ashore at Grytviken, you can walk to Shackleton’s memorial cross on Hope Point at the eastern end of the cove.

The Norwegian Church is located at Grytviken, and if you travel to Antarctica over Christmas you may be able to join in on the Christmas Day service. It was a welcome relief for us to visit the church to escape the cold-biting winds.  It had just started to snow; even with our thick jackets on, the feeling of cold and the damp from the sleet and snow started to take its toll.

We were worried about our cameras, having read in various articles that they freeze in temperatures below zero, although they were tightly sealed in Ziploc bags.  To take a photo, we had to take our thick waterproof gloves off, take the camera out of the bags, snap away and then hurriedly put it back in again and then wrangle with a wet glove trying to get it back on our hands as quickly as possible. We did purchase silk glove linings from the Ponant Shop on board, hoping they would help keep our hands warm, but they became useless once wet.  There was also no way we could take photos with either the silk gloves on or the thick waterproof ones.

You Can Shop on South Georgia Island

The South Georgia Museum is well worth a visit; it has a shop where you can purchase items.  The Post Office is available for posting postcards back home.  Some of our fellow passengers posted theirs on November 9, and they reached Australia in late March, so be prepared for a wait. You can purchase items in Euros, Dollars and Pounds.  Sometimes credit cards work, and sometimes they don’t, so bring some cash with you as a backup.

There was also a tour available of the whaling station where we learnt more about the history and what the buildings were used for. The buildings were used by the Carpenters, Pattern Makers, Plumbers and Tinsmiths. The most important were the Main Store and the Rope Store. We recommend that you take this free tour.

Scattered on the shoreline are rusty old sunken vessels that were used for whaling. Penguins and elephant seals were lazily hanging around these old vessels; we had to be careful that we didn’t tread on them.  Penguins have the right of way, and of course, they should too.  We did not know what to expect when we walked around the Penguins; most of them just gave us a quick glance and continued down their Penguin Highway.

The whale catcher Petrel was built in Norway in 1928.  It was the first to have a catwalk so the gunner could run from the bridge to the harpoon gun.  The gun and the catwalk were removed when it was converted for sealing in 1956.

Fortuna Bay

That afternoon we headed off to Fortuna Bay in Whistle Cove on South Georgia Island. Fortuna Bay is located at the foot of very rugged mountains.  The bay itself is 5 km long and 1.5 m wide.  It is home to thousands of King Penguins, Antarctic Fur Seals, Elephant Seals,  Brown Skua birds, Giant Petrels and Antarctic Terns.

Along the route, we experienced 4- 5 m waves. We had by this time become used to the swells, especially at lunchtime when we were seated close to one of the windows within the La Celeste Restaurant on level 2.  At times it felt like you were in a washing machine, the swishing of white water foam to and fro, but we were not put off our lunch or our wine.

We spent 2 hours on Fortuna Bay. A leisurely 1 km walk each way took us to a colony of King Penguins, passing by grunting elephant seals and fur seals. We stood still gazing out in wonder at the King Penguin colony in front of us.  Baby King Penguins, all fluffy and brown, came up to us, checking us out, either finding us interesting or not.

St Andrews Bay

At 11.00 pm that night we set sail for St Andrews Bay, arriving at around 5.00 am the next morning. We had a morning excursion starting at 6 am. A light breakfast was available before going ashore, or if you were one of the later groups, you could order room service if the restaurants had closed by the time you returned. The early start did not deter anyone. Sunrise was around 4.30 am, and it was a special feeling to be the first on land.

Pro-Tip

Not only is this a tip from us but also from the Expedition crew.  There are no toilets on landing; nothing at all should touch the ground, not even a drop of water (hope you get my drift here).  If you need to go to the toilet, you have to return on one of the zodiacs.  Our tip is to not have breakfast or that morning coffee; wait till you return to ship, especially if you are one of the first groups out.

The King Penguin Colony here at St Andrew’s Bay is the largest we had seen so far.  Over 100,000 Penguins, a sea of brown in front of us, which happened to be the chicks with their fluffy brown coats.  The adult penguins were moulting as well; brown feathers carpeted the ground that we were walking on. Eventually, you will get used to the smell of Penguin Poo.  In the Penguin Highways and where the penguins congregate, the ground will be covered in a pinkish colour, which is from the krill that they eat.

We had to cross a fast-flowing stream, but help was at hand from the expedition team. It was a 2km walk to the colony but well worth every step.  A colony this large we would never see unless we visited again. For what seemed miles ahead of us were King Penguins and their chicks; it was an incredible sight and one that we hope at least doubles each year in size.

Moltke Harbour

At lunchtime, we sailed to Moltke Harbour, arriving around 2.00 pm.

We enjoyed watching the antics of the King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins when we landed onshore.  The male Gentoo Penguins were very busy making their nests with small stones and rocks.

We walked amongst the elephant seals and their babies, keeping out of the way of the big males who were itching for a fight or two.

Our adventure took us along the former reindeer track in a circle.  Reindeer were introduced to South Georgia Island in the 20th century by the whalers.  They were used for recreational hunting and meat to feed the whalers.   The population bred and spread over the island, causing much environmental damage, and eventually, they were eradicated.  Monkeys, sheep, cattle, cats, dogs and rats were introduced, but they did not survive.  Rats were eradicated in 2010 after the bait was spread via helicopters.

Gold Harbour

At 19.00 we departed for Gold Harbour. We found out that it was named by the early sealers because the early morning light and the light at dusk cast yellowy shadows over the cliffs.

We had an issue walking onshore at Gold Harbour.  Not only was there a large number of elephant seals along the beach, but King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins.

There was even an elephant seal ‘pup kindergarten’ at the western end of the beach where a glacial stream ran down into the sea.

We encountered a light-mantled sooty albatross.

Drygalski Fjord

After an early morning start, we set sail at 11.00 am to Drygalski Fjord. We were warned that we may expect a 7m swell during this sailing.  The warning was well-timed.

Drygalski Fjord is located along the southeast coast of South Georgia.  The bay is 1.6 km wide. It was named after Professor Eric Von Drygalski, who was the leader in 1901- 1903 of the first German Antarctica Expedition.

It was bitterly cold sailing into the bay, but the view of the immense Fjord and the Glacier made us forget. It was difficult trying to stand still on deck to take photos of the glacier because the winds were blowing so strongly. At one point there was a loud crash as part of the Glacier had broken away (a result of global warming) and a small tsunami formed.  One of the immediate dangers of sailing around these areas is glaciers or icebergs breaking away that could form tsunamis, especially if you are in a zodiac.  The team on board is well trained in emergencies, so we had no fear, but the unexpected could happen at any second.

That afternoon at 14.00 we set sail to Antarctica.  This was it, the big moment that we had been waiting for.  South Georgia will always stay in our hearts, but this was the ‘big unknown’.

Antarctica Peninsula

Some interesting facts:

• It has an area of 14,000,000 sq km
• a population of 1,106 which can triple in size during the summer months when researchers arrive
• there are no cities, just research stations
• it contains the geographic South Pole
• it is the southernmost continent and the fifth largest in the world
• It is twice the size of Australia
• 1000 km from South America
• 2700 km from Tasmania
• 5000 km from Africa
• 98% of the continent is covered in ice that has an average thickness of 1.9 km
• Its mountain range is the longest in the world, measuring 3200 km in length, with 48 summits above 4000m high
• it is the coldest, driest, windiest continent on Earth, as well as having the highest elevation of all the continents
• Believe it or not, it is classified as a desert with an annual rainfall of only 8 inches along the coast and less inland
• The average temperature is around -63 degrees C, but a record temperature measured from space reached – 89.2 degrees C.
• The vegetation is classified as tundra. It is home to types of algae, fungi, plants and bacteria
• Animals that can be found in Antarctica include penguins, seals, whales, birds, mites, nematodes (roundworms)  and tardigrades (water bears or moss piglets – 8-legged micro animals).
• The South Pole time zone is the same as New Zealand

A57A Iceberg

On the morning of November 13 at around 0800 hours, our Captain advised us we were sailing near A57a iceberg.  A57A was a tabular iceberg that was 20 km in length, 8km wide and 300m below the surface of the ocean.  This was an exciting experience for all of us on board; you could even hear the excitement in our Captain’s voice and Florence’s as well, as she was up on the bridge with him.

We all had difficulty photographing A57a because of the length, but it was fascinating to get up as close as we could.

What is an iceberg?

An iceberg is a piece or chunks of ice that were formed on land.  They come in all sizes and shapes and float in an ocean or lake. Some are small, but some can be the size of a small country.  A57a is relatively large, but there are 10 larger. To be classified as an iceberg, the chunk of ice should be larger than 5 metres.  They travel with the currents of the ocean but can get caught up in shallow waters or smashed up on the coastline. Most of the iceberg lies under the water’s surface, some up to 90% but on average around 80%.

 

Brown Bluff Peninsula

As we edged closer to the Antarctic Peninsula, we noticed that sunrise was a lot earlier now at 03.42 and the sunset later at 21.15.

Brown Bluff is an extinct volcano that is over one million years old. It is named because of the reddish-brown rock on the north face of the cliff. The cliffs reach a height of 709m vertically.

The colonies of Gentoo Penguins and Adelie Penguins nest there. It is also the nesting ground for Snow Petrels.

Cierva Cove/Cuverville Island

Sunrise was at 3.46 am this morning as we made our way into Cierva Cove on Cuverville Island.  Cuverville Island lies in the Errera Channel off the west coast of Graham Land in Antarctica.

Birdlife International has identified Cuverville Island as an important breeding area supporting large colonies of Gentoo Penguins, southern giant petrels and imperial shags.

Instead of going ashore, our expedition was a zodiac cruise through the small fragments of brash ice (fragments of floating ice measuring not more than 2m across).  It can be difficult for the zodiac to manoeuvre amongst the brash ice; you can hear the ice cracking as we move slowly around the larger chunks.  We asked our guide to cut the engines so that we could hear the ice cracking; it was one of the most peaceful moments that morning and one that should not be missed.  This is nature at its most serene moment.  It was like the ‘snap, crackle and pop’ you get when you eat Rice Bubbles or Coco Pops cereal.

As we moved closer to the larger icebergs, we noticed their depth underneath the water.  The brilliant blue colour of the ice shimmering in the sunlight that morning created an eerie atmosphere.  Other icebergs looked like pieces of artwork where the strong winds in the cove had created large holes, some large enough to drive a car through.

There was a shout from the ‘walkie-talkies’ that a minke whale had been sighted and off we went. A splash beside our zodiac showed that the minke whale had surfaced fairly close to us. Another gasp and it was in front; we kept our distance as we followed, waiting for the minke whale to surface again.  It was difficult to get the photo as we just did not know where it would surface next.  This was one of those moments when you just put your camera down and watch the performance, and what a performance it was. We also saw the flight of the snowy albatross as we headed back to the ship.

Cuverville Island 

On arrival, we were greeted by a large colony of Gentoo Penguins; this is the largest colony in Antarctica. We learnt that there are over 4,80o pairs+.  The team had carved steps for us out of the icy snow to get from the rocky beach landing. We watched the antics of the Gentoo Penguins for what seemed like hours, but it was soon to get back on board again.  We hadn’t even felt the cold that afternoon.

Scenic Navigation Around Wilhelmina Bay – French Champagne on Ice Takes On a New Meaning After This Day

Wilhelmina Bay gets its fair share of humpback whales and minke whales gathering here to enjoy feeding on the krill.  The krill, we learnt, is trapped in the bay by the strong current at the end of the summer.

The bay was named after the Queen of the Netherlands – Wilhelmina –  who reigned between the years 1890 to 1948.

The bay is 24km wide, and it felt immense as we sailed into it at around 7 pm in the evening. Our Captain and Expedition team were up to something.  Instead of anchoring at the edge of the ice shelf, we ventured further, gently breaking the ice shelf as Le Lyrial moved in closer.  Then we heard the clanking of the anchor.  All onboard were out on the deck watching what was happening as the sun started to set.  To the right, we could see a zodiac heading away from the ship and Florence and a team member on the ice shelf walking towards Le Lyrial, testing the ice as they moved.

Other zodiacs appeared with the team and seemed to be laden with tables, boxes of glasses and wait for it – bottles of French champagne. We were going to drink French Champagne on Ice! Our groups were called, and we dressed quickly for this special event.  Our time was limited on the ice shelf to 15 minutes for each group, just enough to grab a glass of Champagne and snap happily away with our cameras. We had not expected this!

Thanks to our Captain and the team for giving us such a memorable moment.

Deception Island

We passed through the Neptune Bellows, which is a narrow channel just 230m wide, the entrance of the caldera of Deception Island. The passage through the channel was slightly rough due to the swell, and it was overcast and snowing.

The plan was to land at Whalers Bay, but we were beaten to the landing site by another ship, which meant that plans had to be changed to land at Telephone Bay.

At Telephone Bay, the morning’s activity was a long trek up the mountain for stunning views over the caldera.  This is a unique land formation as the ring-shaped island is actually the top of the volcano.

As we left Telephone Bay, fin and humpback whales frolicked in front of the ship.  Our Captain circled them for around 30 minutes to give us all a chance of witnessing this gathering.

Deception Island/Half Moon Island

Deception Island was discovered in November 1820 by an American Sealer by the name of Nathaniel Palmer.  In 1906, it was established as a whaling base where they processed the blubber to extract the oil.  It closed down in 1931 due to a slump in prices of whale oil.  The British established a scientific station there, but they had to abandon the site due to damage of the station buildings by volcanic eruptions.

Half Moon Island is located in Moon Bay and takes its name from the crescent shape of the bay.  The island is located on the western shore of Livingstone Island and appeared in 1935 on navigation charts.

The island is known for its wildlife. We learnt that 7 species of birds can be found here:

• Wilson’s Storm Petrels
• Antarctic Shag
• Antarctic Tern
• Kelp Gull
• Snowy Sheathbill
• Brown Skua

There is a 3,000-pair-strong colony of Chinstrap Penguins.

Our last stop in this unique wilderness was at Half Moon Bay; could it be that Captain had saved the best for last? Every landing was a favourite landing for us, but there was something about Half Moon Bay. Was it the sighting of a family of Weddell seals? Our expedition team were excited as it is not very often you get to see a pup.

Was it the cheeky Chinstrap penguins who loved sliding around on their bellies?  Or was it the stunning silvery-white landscape with rocks covered in colourful lichen that glistened in the afternoon sun?

It was all that and more.  But there was a feeling of sadness as we stepped aboard the zodiac for the last time to head back to the ship.  Also, our thoughts went ahead of us, wondering how the Drake Passage would be – could it be the Drake Lake or the Drake Shake?

Drake Passage

The Drake Passage is named after Sir Francis Drake.  In September 1578, his ship was blown off course after sailing through the Straits of Magellan.  This proved that there was a connection between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It was not until 1616 that Dutch Navigator Schouten recorded the first passage.  Schouten also named Cape Horn, which became the shortest crossing between Antarctica, a distance of 800km.

We got the Drake Shake.  Was it rough? Yes! We felt it was our rite of passage to experience the harshness of this world-renowned body of water on our expedition to Antarctica.  

We sailed calmly up the Beagle Channel a few days later to the gateway to the white continent – Ushuaia. Ushuaia lives up to its nickname – the end of the world. It is where the Andes Mountains plunge straight into the sea.

Summary of the journey:

Total 3,458 nautical miles or 6,404.2km (1 nautical mile = 1,852 km)

Montevideo to Grytviken – 1,469 NM

Grytviken to Fortuna Bay – 26 NM

Fortuna Bay to Saint Andrew’s – 43 NM

Saint Andrews to Moltke Harbour – 17 NM

Moltke Harbour to Gold Harbour – 18 NM

Gold Harbour to Cooper Bay – 18 NM

Cooper Bay to Brown Bluff – 866 NM

Brown Bluff to Cierva Cove – 172 NM

Cierva Cove – Cuverville – 60 NM

Cuverville to Wilhelmina Bay 23 NM

Wilhelmina Bay to Deception Island – 115NM

Deception Island to Half Moon – 42 NM

Half Moon to Ushuaia – 589 NM

Some of The Wildlife We Experienced On Our Journey

King Penguins

Adele Penguins

 

Southern Elephant Seals

Humpback Whale

 

Conclusion

There endeth our adventure, our expedition to the unknown.  A place that tugged at our heartstrings, a place where we fell in love with penguins (all of them), and elephant seals, where we marvelled at the whales and all the other wildlife we met on the way.  We are forever grateful to our Captain and the team on board Ponant who made a dream a reality.  Everyone on board from below deck to above deck should feel honoured to be a part of a great team. We feel honoured to have been amongst them.  To the new friendships we made on board, we thank everyone for making those 15 nights a memorable experience.

Don’t forget to get your passports stamped at the Tourist Office just as you exit the Pier.

We knew before we left Ushuaia that we would go back. Duncan knew it standing on the dock watching Le Lyrial in the harbour. I knew it somewhere over the Drake on the way home. Florence warned us about the polar bug. She was right.

Antarctica changes you. It recalibrates your understanding of scale, of wilderness, of what the natural world looks like when humans have not touched it. It puts a 100,000-strong colony of King Penguins in front of you and makes you feel simultaneously very small and very lucky. It pours champagne on an ice shelf and toasts you into the most exclusive club on earth — the people who have stood on the seventh continent.

If Antarctica is on your bucket list — do not wait. The season is short, the places are limited, and the best cabins on the best ships with the best expedition teams sell out up to 18 months in advance.

Start planning today. We promise you will not regret a single moment.

Ready to book your Antarctica expedition cruise?

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Have you been to Antarctica or is it on your bucket list? We would love to hear from you — leave a comment below. And if this guide helped you plan your Antarctic adventure, please share it with a fellow traveller who is dreaming of the seventh continent.

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Related Reading:

Antarctica is one of the best epic experiences to have around the world – is it on your travel bucket list?

Every day was a highlight, from the largest of large icebergs, some the size of small countries, to the animals of the Antarctic and the unique brilliant white icy landscape. It is the coldest and windiest continent on Earth.

 One of the most important things is to understand ‘how to capture those moments‘ with your photography; it will be the only time you may visit.

 

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