We almost made the mistake everyone makes with Aswan — treating it as a stopover. A night to break up the journey to Abu Simbel, maybe a quick temple visit, then onward. By the end of our first afternoon on a felucca drifting past Elephantine Island, we knew we’d have been wrong to rush it.
Two days here gave us a desert monastery we walked to under a punishing sun, mint tea on a Nubian family’s rooftop as the light went gold over the Nile, and an afternoon at Philae Temple that turned into one of our favourite stories from the whole trip — a temple UNESCO physically moved, island to island, stone by stone, to save it from the water.
This is how we spent those two days, what it cost us, and what we’d tell you to do differently.
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Map of Aswan
After five nights cruising from Esna aboard Nour-el-Nil’s Dahabiya, we arrived in Aswan for the next stage of a journey that had taken us from Cairo to Alexandria to Luxor. We used Egyptian Edu Travel for a private driver and Egyptologist throughout Egypt, and would recommend it: no rushing between sites, and a guide who handled tickets, tipping, and local knowledge without us having to think about it.
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2 Days in Aswan at a Glance
Day One Felucca to Aswan Botanical Gardens → Monastery of St Simeon → Nubian Village (with a stop to view the Aga Khan Mausoleum from the water)
Day Two: Philae Temple in the morning, then choose one: the High Dam and Kalabsha Temple, the Nubian Museum, or a slower afternoon at your hotel
Day One in Aswan
Felucca ride to Aswan Botanical Gardens
We’d barely dropped our bags at the Old Cataract Hotel before we were walking back out the door toward the marina. Our guide was waiting, and within minutes we were gliding past Elephantine Island by felucca, the city noise falling away almost immediately.
A note before you read on: this article mentions our stay at the Old Cataract Hotel when it was managed as the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan under the Accor group. As of 1 May 2026, management of the hotel has passed to Mandarin Oriental, with a full renovation and rebrand to “Mandarin Oriental Old Cataract, Aswan” expected to be completed in July 2027. We haven’t stayed under the new management, so we can’t say how much we mention below still holds true.
Aswan Botanical Gardens
Aswan Botanical Gardens
Once known as Kitchener’s Island, this 6.8-hectare garden was planted by Lord Kitchener, commander of the Egyptian Army in the 1800s, with tropical species he brought in from Africa, India, and the Far East. You can only reach it by felucca or private boat.
We entered from the North Garden (there are two other entrances, but this is the main one) after paying a small entrance fee, and asked our felucca captain to meet us at the south end once we’d walked through. After days of temples and tombs, wandering under that much shade, with nothing to read or decode, felt like the first real breath of the trip.
Opening hours: 7 am–5 pm daily (6 pm in summer)
Monastery of St Simeon
Monastery of San Simeon
A short felucca ride took us to the desert monastery. From the dock, you can walk up or take a camel — we chose to walk, and by the halfway point, I was regretting it, even though we visited in November. It’s a genuinely hot, uphill stretch, whatever the season, so bring proper shoes, water (lots), a hat, and sunscreen no matter when you go.
Originally built in the 7th century and rebuilt in the 10th century by Coptic monks, the monastery was abandoned in the 13th century after repeated raids. The walk back down is easier than the walk up, or you can take a camel either way.
Opening hours: 8 am–4 pm daily (5 pm in summer)
Camel to Monastery of St Simeon
Passing the Aga Khan Mausoleum
Aga Khan Mausoleum
On the way to the Nubian Village, you’ll pass the pink-sandstone mausoleum of Sir Sultan Muhammed Shah, Aga Khan III, who died in 1957. Built between 1956 and 1960 and commissioned by his wife, Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan, it overlooks his former winter villa. A red rose is still laid on his tomb daily.
Note: the mausoleum itself is currently closed to visitors, so this is a from-the-boat viewing stop rather than a walk-in — still a striking sight against the Nile, just don’t plan on going inside.
Nubian Village
Nubian Village
I’ll admit our first few minutes in this colourful West Bank village felt a little staged — until it didn’t. That feeling faded fast once we were actually talking with people. We stopped at a spice shop along the way, and I still can’t walk past a cinnamon stick without thinking of that stall; the whole village seems to run on scent, one shop’s aroma pulling you toward the next.
Spices at the market in the Nubian village
Our guide walked us through Nubia’s distinct history and its place within modern Egypt — the Nubian language itself blends Arabic, Berber, Turkish, and Greek influences, a legacy of the region’s position as a historic crossroads.
Nubian market
We ended the day exactly where I’d choose to end it again: cross-legged on the rooftop of a Nubian family’s home, mint tea going cold in our hands because neither of us wanted to stop looking at the view over the village and the Nile.
Inside the Nubian family home
The rooftop of the Nubian family home
Day Two in Aswan
Philae Temple
This was the stop I’d been looking forward to most, and it didn’t disappoint. Philae Temple’s backstory is almost as remarkable as the carvings themselves. Originally on the Island of Philae, parts of the complex were submerged when the Aswan Dam was built between 1898 and 1902. For years, visitors could only view the ruins from their boats, watching temple pillars rise out of the water. When the High Dam was built between 1960 and 1971, UNESCO stepped in to relocate the entire complex, stone by stone, to the higher ground of Agilika Island, where it stands today. Standing inside it, knowing the whole thing had been rebuilt piece by piece to save it, made every carving feel a little more urgent to look at properly.
Boat to Philae Temple
Getting there: a 15-minute boat ride from Philae Marina drops you at the island’s southern dock. You enter through the Kiosk of Nectanebo, the oldest part of the complex, guarded by a first pylon carved with reliefs dating to the 4th century BC.
What you’ll see: the Temple of Isis (the main Philae Temple, dating to Nectanebo I’s reign, 380–362 BC), the Kiosk of Trajan, the Gate of Hadrian — home to hieroglyphs said to be the last ever written by ancient Egyptians — the Birth House dedicated to Horus, and the Temple of Hathor on the island’s east side.
Philae Temple Complex
Kiosk of Trajan
The Birth House columns, fluted and decorated
Past the second pylon lies the inner temple and sanctuary, with some of the most detailed carvings in the complex.
Isis Altar and stone carvings inside Philae Temple
Stone carvings inside the Sanctuary
Opening hours: 7 am–4 pm (October–May), 7 am–5 pm (June–September)
We’d strongly recommend a guide here — the layered history (Ptolemaic, Roman, and Nubian influences all show up in the carvings) is easy to miss without one.
Choose Your Afternoon
Philae took us a little under three hours, including the boat transfer, and by the time we stepped back onto the marina, we were weighing up how much more we had in us. Here’s how we’d think about spending what’s left of Day Two, roughly ranked by how much energy and time each one needs:
Short on time (1–2 hours): The Nubian Museum. Located centrally in Aswan, this is the easiest add-on — no boat or long drive required. It contextualises everything you saw in the Nubian Village the day before, with artefacts spanning ancient Nubian civilisation through to the 20th-century relocation of Nubian communities during the Aswan Dam floods.
Have half a day: The High Dam and Kalabsha Temple. These sit close together west of the dam, so they pair naturally. The High Dam itself (built 1960–1971) is more of a photo-and-context stop than a lingering visit. Kalabsha Temple, dedicated to the Nubian fertility god Mandulis, was relocated here in 1970 after the Nubia flooding — a smaller, quieter echo of the Philae relocation story.
Opening hours (Kalabsha): 7 am–4 pm daily
Prefer a slower pace: the Arch-Angels Michael Coptic Cathedral can be visited independently and doesn’t need a guide or booked transport — a good option if you’d rather wander at your own speed after a full first day.
We chose to stop there. We spent the rest of our second afternoon doing nothing more ambitious than sitting on the terrace of the Old Cataract, watching feluccas cross the Nile as the light softened, before an early start to Abu Simbel the next morning. After two full days of walking, boats, and history, it was exactly the afternoon we needed — and I’d tell you to give yourself permission to do the same.
What Does 2 Days in Aswan Cost?
We didn’t track every pound and dollar as obsessively as we probably should have, but here’s a fair guide to what two days here will actually cost, per person in USD — it shifts with season, group size, and whether you lean on a private guide the way we did.
Budget (~$40–60/day) Budget hotel or guesthouse, felucca ride booked independently (~$10–15/hr, shared), self-guided entry to Philae Temple and the Nubian Museum, street food and casual restaurants, walking or shared taxis.
Moderate (~$100–160/day) 3–4 star hotel, a half-day private guide for Philae and the Nubian Village (~$50–80), sit-down meals, private transfers between sites.
Splurge (~$300+/day) A stay at the Old Cataract Hotel, a full-day private guide and Egyptologist for both days, private felucca and boat transfers throughout, and fine dining at your hotel.
Entry fees to budget for: Philae Temple, Aswan Botanical Gardens, Monastery of St Simeon, Nubian Museum, and Kalabsha Temple each charge separate entrance fees, typically in the $5–15 USD range per site — worth checking current prices when booking, as Egypt’s tourist-site pricing has changed several times in recent years.
If I’m honest, the guide was the best money we spent in Aswan — not just for the history, but for the small things, like knowing exactly when to arrive at Philae to avoid the tour-group crush. That said, if you’re comfortable navigating on your own, Aswan is genuinely doable on a tighter budget using felucca captains directly and paying entry fees yourself.
Where to Stay in Aswan
The Old Cataract Hotel
The Old Cataract Hotel — this is the splurge choice, and we don’t regret a single pound of it. We spent our first night in the original historic building and moved to the newer wing for the second, and honestly loved both for different reasons. Service was excellent, the breakfast buffet was the best we had anywhere in Egypt, and we made a point of joining the free late-afternoon heritage tour — hearing the stories of past guests like Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie while standing in the actual rooms they stayed in was one of those small travel moments that stick with you. Sunrise and sunset from our balcony, feluccas drifting past below, were reason enough to stay here on their own.
NB: the above describes our stay at the Old Cataract Hotel when it was managed as the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan under the Accor group. As of 1 May 2026, management of the hotel has passed to Mandarin Oriental, with a full renovation and rebrand to “Mandarin Oriental Old Cataract, Aswan” expected to be completed in July 2027. We haven’t stayed under the new management, so we can’t say how much of what we described still holds true.
Mid-range option: look for Nile-view rooms at one of Aswan’s 4-star riverside properties — you’ll get much of the view and location benefit at a fraction of the Old Cataract’s rate.
Budget option: several guesthouses on the Nubian west bank offer a genuinely different, quieter experience than staying in central Aswan, often at half the cost of a mainland hotel.
Browse more Aswan hotel options here
How to Get to Aswan
- By air: flights connect Aswan with Cairo, Luxor, and Abu Simbel. Check current fares and schedules
- By train: Cairo to Aswan takes roughly 13–14 hours; Luxor to Aswan is about 3 hours — a far more practical rail option if you’re already in Luxor.
- By bus: an overnight journey from Cairo. Check bus prices
- Private transfers: book an airport transfer here
When to Visit Aswan
The best window is October to May. June through September brings temperatures into the high 30s°C (mid-to-high 90s°F), which makes the felucca rides and the uphill walk to the monastery considerably tougher going. If you can only travel in summer, plan the Monastery of St Simeon walk for early morning and lean on air-conditioned transfers between other stops.
Egypt Visa Information
A visa on arrival costs USD $25. Alternatively, our partner iVisa can arrange one in advance for a service fee — useful if you’d rather not queue on arrival.
FAQ: Visiting Aswan
Is 2 days enough time in Aswan? Yes, for the highlights. Two days cover Philae Temple, the Nubian Village, the Botanical Gardens, and the Monastery of St Simeon comfortably. If you also want the High Dam, Kalabsha Temple, and the Nubian Museum without rushing, three days gives more breathing room.
Do you need a guide to visit Philae Temple? It’s not required, but strongly recommended. The site layers Ptolemaic, Roman, and Nubian history across multiple structures, and a lot of that context is easy to miss without someone explaining what you’re looking at.
How much does a felucca ride cost in Aswan? Independently booked, shared felucca rides typically run $10–15 USD per hour, though prices vary by season and negotiation. Private charters and guided packages cost more but include a captain who knows the sites and timing.
Can you visit the Aga Khan Mausoleum? Not currently — it’s closed to visitors, though you can still view it from the Nile as you pass by on the way to the Nubian Village.
Is Aswan worth visiting, or just a stop before Abu Simbel? It’s absolutely worth two days on its own. Philae Temple alone rivals many of Egypt’s more famous sites, and the Nubian Village and desert monastery aren’t experiences you’ll get elsewhere on a typical Egypt itinerary.
What should you pack for the Monastery of St Simeon walk? Sturdy walking shoes, water, a hat, and sunscreen — the walk is short but steep and exposed, and it’s hot even outside the peak summer months.
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