Most visitors to Ho Chi Minh City do the Mekong Delta as a day trip. They board a minibus at 7 am, travel two hours south, spend three hours on a boat, see a floating market and a coconut candy stall, and return to the city by late afternoon. It is a perfectly good day out. What it is not — and cannot be — is the Mekong Delta. We spent four days on the delta with...

