The Best Countries to Visit in South America — A Complete Travel Guide

In 2013, we sold everything, left our home in Sydney, and flew to South America and we had absolutely no idea what to expect. What followed was over six months on the road across five countries — learning Spanish in Quito, trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, crossing Patagonia by bus from Ushuaia to Santiago, standing at the edge of Iguazu Falls from both sides, and spending six weeks in a coastal Ecuadorian town watching the Pacific roll in.

This guide is built on that experience. We have been honest about what we loved, frank about the challenges, and practical about what it costs — because that is what we would have wanted before we left.

South America is one of the most extraordinary travel destinations on earth. It is also one of the most misunderstood — widely assumed to be difficult, dangerous or inaccessible, when the reality for prepared travellers is quite different. Of the twelve countries on the continent, five earned a permanent place in our hearts: Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador and Peru. This is our guide to all five.

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A Quick Note on How We Travelled

We travelled South America entirely by bus and only 4 internal flights.  We booked everything ourselves, stayed in hostels in private double rooms with ensuite bathrooms throughout, and lived on a moderate budget that kept us comfortable without being extravagant. Everything in this guide reflects that style of travel — independent, unhurried, and deeply personal.

South America at a Glance

South America is the fourth-largest continent in the world, home to twelve countries and three dependencies.

• Brazil is the largest country and São Paulo its largest city.
• The Amazon River is the longest river on the continent.
• The highest mountain — Aconcagua in the Argentine Andes — stands at 6,961 metres.
• The driest place on earth is the Atacama Desert in Chile.
• Ushuaia in Argentina is the southernmost city in the world 

Argentina

Why Argentina?

Buenos Aires has a European elegance that genuinely surprises first-time visitors — wide boulevards, colonial architecture, outstanding restaurants, and a tango culture that is as embedded in daily life as it is in the tourist brochures.

Mendoza was a hit, as we are wine lovers, and we had a dream of riding into the sunset in the Andes. We achieved both in the four days we spent there. But it was Patagonia — crossing in and out of Argentina and Chile on the long bus routes north — that became the experience of our lives. And Bariloche, in the Argentine Lake District, emerged as our definitive favourite destination of the entire trip.

Argentina is our recommendation as the safest country in South America for first-time visitors. We had travelled there in 2013 and again in 2018 and have consistently found it safe, welcoming and genuinely rewarding.

Buenos Aires — the Paris of South America

Buenos Aires is a city that takes you by surprise. You arrive expecting South America and find something closer to a cultured European capital — wide tree-lined boulevards, outstanding beef, world-class wine, and a nightlife that begins at midnight and considers 2 am an early evening. Allow at least a week.

The neighbourhoods each have a completely different character.

Palermo is the restaurant and bar district, overflowing with outdoor tables and creative kitchens.

San Telmo is the antique and tango quarter, where impromptu street performances happen on Sunday mornings in the market.

Recoleta is the most elegant neighbourhood, home to the famous cemetery where Evita Perón is buried — the Guided Walking Tour of Recoleta Cemetery is essential, because without a guide you will wander for an hour without finding her grave (we know from experience).

La Boca is the colourful waterfront district famous for its brightly painted houses and its association with Boca Juniors football club — visit for the colour and leave before dark.

A Tango show with dinner is one of the great Buenos Aires experiences and is worth booking in advance. The Hop-On Hop-Off Bus is the most efficient way to orient yourself to the spread-out city on your first day.

Where we stayed: Leonardo da Vinci Residences, Libertad 1224, Retiro — a studio apartment with a balcony overlooking the city. Well-equipped kitchen, excellent wifi, good location for walking to the main sites. The European feel of the Retiro neighbourhood genuinely surprised us.

Book here

Getting there: Ezeiza International Airport is 45 minutes to 1.5 hours from the city, depending on traffic. Pre-book your transfer to avoid the unlicensed taxi touts at arrivals.

 

Read more: Free Walking Tour Buenos Aires

Mendoza — wine country at the foot of the Andes

Mendoza sits in the Cuyo region of Argentina, 1,040km west of Buenos Aires at the foot of the Andes, and is one of the world’s great wine regions — producing Malbec in particular at a quality and price point that makes it one of the great travel indulgences. The Half-Day Wine Tasting tour is one of the best value experiences in Argentina, and if you have the energy, the Horseback Ride to the Andes with authentic BBQ is one of those experiences that simply cannot be replicated anywhere else.

Where we stayed: Chimbas Hostel, Cobos 92 & Acceso Este — ten minutes from the bus station, with a pool, BBQ, outdoor garden, full kitchen facilities and very helpful staff who booked our tours directly. Comfortable, clean and exactly what we needed.

Getting there: Mendoza Airport is 8km from the city. Regular buses connect Mendoza to Buenos Aires (14 hours) and across the Andes to Santiago, Chile.

Important note: Mendoza is in Argentina, not Chile — though it sits just across the Andes from Santiago and is a popular cross-border day trip from the Chilean capital.

Puerto Iguazu and Iguazu Falls — a non-negotiable

There are moments in travel that rearrange your sense of what is possible in the natural world. Standing at the edge of Iguazu Falls — 275 individual waterfalls spread across nearly 3km of the Iguazu River — is one of them. Eleanor Roosevelt famously said, “Poor Niagara”, upon seeing Iguazu for the first time. We understand exactly what she meant, having travelled to both.

We strongly recommend visiting both sides of the falls — the Argentine side first for the immersive jungle walkways that bring you nose to nose with the water, and the Brazilian side the following day for the panoramic views that give you the full scale of what you are looking at. The two experiences are completely different and equally extraordinary.

Book your day tour to Puerto Iguazu here

Short of time? Book a day tour covering both sides of the falls here

Pro tip: Book accommodation in Puerto Iguazu well in advance — the town fills up quickly, particularly around Easter and school holiday periods. We left this too late and ended up at the Iguassu Flower Garden Hotel, which looked more like a car park motel on arrival than the photos suggested — the owners were wonderful, but the location was a 30-minute walk from town. Learn from our mistake and book the better-rated hostels early.

Getting there: Puerto Iguazu Airport is approximately 20 minutes from the city. Regular buses cross the Argentine-Brazilian border to Foz do Iguaçu.

Bariloche — our favourite destination in all of South America

San Carlos de Bariloche sits on the southern shore of Nahuel Huapi Lake in the Argentine Lake District, surrounded by the Andes, and it is — without qualification — our favourite destination of the entire South American journey. The combination of Swiss-influenced chocolate shops and Alpine architecture, the extraordinary lake and mountain scenery, the hiking, the skiing in winter, and the extraordinary quality of the local food and wine makes Bariloche feel like a destination that should be as famous as anywhere on the continent.

It also sits at the northern end of the Patagonia route — making it the natural endpoint of the great southbound journey from Ushuaia, or an equally natural starting point for those who want to travel north to south.

 

Read more: Best Places to Visit in Patagonia

Argentina Practical Information

Currency: Argentine Peso (ARS). Carry USD cash — you will get a considerably better exchange rate through services like Wise than through official bank channels or ATMs. The gap between the official rate and the informal rate has historically been significant. Always check the current situation before you travel, as it changes frequently.

Getting around: Bus travel in Argentina is excellent — comfortable, reliable, and the only sensible way to cover the vast distances involved. Book in advance on the Patagonia routes as seats sell out. We took overnight buses as well as daytime services throughout and found them uniformly good. Keep all important travel documents on your body at all times.

Language: Spanish. A basic course in Spanish before you go will significantly improve your experience. We used the Duolingo app for the basics.

Safety: Argentina is our recommendation as the safest country in South America for tourists, as long as you take the standard precautions you would in any major city. Keep bags zipped, use ATMs in secure bank lobbies, and be aware of your surroundings in busy tourist areas.

Driving: Argentines drive on the right-hand side. You will need an International Driver’s License to hire a car.

Voltage: 220V.

Best time to visit: Spring (September–November), summer (December–February) and autumn (March–May).

Brazil

Why Brazil?

Brazil is the largest country in South America and one of the most overwhelming travel experiences on the continent — in the best possible sense. The scale is staggering, the energy is extraordinary, and the diversity of what the country offers is unlike anywhere else we have been. We came for Iguazu Falls (from the Brazilian side), fell completely in love with the colonial town of Paraty, and spent over a week in Rio de Janeiro — staying in the bohemian Santa Teresa neighbourhood with its colonial mansions, hilltop restaurants and extraordinary views. We even spent 4 nights in São Paulo – one of the largest cities outside Asia with a population of over 20 million.

Brazil has a medium-to-higher risk travel profile in its major cities — petty crime, scams and certain neighbourhoods require genuine awareness. We travelled safely throughout, but we were careful and aware at all times.

Foz do Iguaçu — the Brazilian side of the Falls

If you have visited the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls, cross the border and do it again from Brazil. The Brazilian side offers the panoramic perspective — a single elevated walkway that carries you above the lower falls and delivers a view of the full width and scale of the water that the Argentine side, for all its intimacy, cannot match. The two experiences are genuinely complementary, and visiting only one side is, in our view, missing half the story.

Book your ticket here

Experience both sides of the falls from the Brazilian side here

Where we stayed: Iguassu Guest House, Rua Naipi 1019, Foz do Iguaçu (unfortunately, our accommodation here has closed).

Check out these alternatives here

Getting there: Foz do Iguaçu Airport is approximately 30 minutes from the city. Regular buses cross the Argentine border from Puerto Iguazu.

Paraty — the hidden gem of the Brazilian coast

Paraty was, for both of us, the greatest surprise of the Brazil section of our trip and one of the most beautiful places we visited in all of South America. A perfectly preserved 17th-century colonial town on the Costa Verde between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, Paraty sits at the edge of a bay studded with islands, surrounded by Atlantic Forest, and blessed with a historic centre of white-washed buildings and cobblestone streets that floods gently at high tide and gleams in the evening light.

It is not a major tourist destination in the way that Rio or Iguazu are, which is precisely its charm. The restaurants are excellent, the pace is gentle, and the boat tours around the bay and to the surrounding islands are among the most relaxed and beautiful half-days we spent anywhere in South America.

 

Where we stayed: We stayed at three properties during our stay. Our personal favourite was the Chill Inn Paraty Hostel & Posada at Orlando Carpinelli 3 — located on Paraty’s main beach with a beachfront breakfast restaurant, a private double room with ensuite and balcony overlooking the water. The cost was a little above our usual budget, but the view from the balcony at sunset made it entirely worthwhile.

We also stayed at Le Gite D’Indaiatiba — an extraordinary property 16km outside Paraty in the Atlantic Forest, with waterfalls, a pool, a helipad and a French-influenced restaurant of very high standard. Completely different from the hostel experience and worth every penny for a special occasion.

Getting there: Paraty has no airport. The closest are Rio de Janeiro (160km) and São Paulo (182km). We travelled by minibus from Rio — a scenic 4-hour journey along the coast.

Rio de Janeiro — one of the great cities

Rio de Janeiro needs little introduction — it is one of the most famous cities on earth, and it largely lives up to its reputation. The combination of mountains, beaches, Carnival, samba, the Christ the Redeemer statue above the city and the extraordinary Copacabana and Ipanema beachfronts makes it genuinely unlike anywhere else in the world.

We stayed in Santa Teresa — the bohemian hilltop neighbourhood above the city, known for its colonial mansions, artist studios, winding streets and excellent restaurants. It was a deliberate choice and one we would make again without hesitation. The neighbourhood has a warmth and authenticity that the beachfront areas, for all their beauty, can lack.

Neighbourhood guide:
Santa Teresa — bohemian, hilltop, restaurants and colonial mansions, our recommendation for a longer stay.
Ipanema — the best beach area for hotels, upscale and beautiful.
Copacabana — best for nightlife, beaches and first-time visitors.
Centro and Lapa — downtown, edgier but genuinely interesting, with excellent restaurants and the famous Escadaria Selarón steps (free to visit).

Safety note: Rio requires genuine urban awareness — keep belongings secure, avoid displaying phones and cameras in busy areas, use Uber rather than street taxis, and ask your accommodation for specific neighbourhood advice before wandering. We felt safe throughout our stay but were consistently careful.

 

São Paulo — the megacity

São Paulo is vast — the largest city in the Southern Hemisphere and one of the largest in the world — and it takes a deliberate strategy to navigate. The key is choosing your neighbourhood carefully. We stayed in Vila Madalena, which proved to be an excellent choice — centrally located, safe, with excellent restaurants and bars and easy metro access to the historic downtown and Avenida Paulista.

The city is not a conventional tourist destination in the way that Rio is, but it has a cultural depth — world-class museums, the extraordinary Pinacoteca art gallery, the Mercadão municipal market, and one of the best restaurant scenes in South America — that rewards those who give it time.

Where we stayed: Hostel O de Casa, R. Inacio Pereira da Rocha 385, Vila Madalena — a characterful, privately owned hostel with excellent staff who were genuinely helpful about what to see and do. The first room was a little dark, the bathroom had a toilet that moved from side to side when seated, and the first night, we could only get a double with a shared bathroom. By the second night, we had a private ensuite. It was honest, affordable and full of good travellers.

Getting there: São Paulo’s main international airport (GRU) is 25km from the city. Book your airport transfer here

Brazil Practical Information

Currency: Brazilian Real (BRL). Credit cards are widely accepted in cities. Carry some cash for local markets and smaller establishments.

Language: Portuguese — not Spanish. We strongly recommend learning some Portuguese before you visit. The Duolingo app covers the basics. English is spoken in São Paulo and Rio tourist areas, but not reliably elsewhere.

Safety: Brazil carries a higher risk profile than Argentina. In São Paulo, Rio and other major cities, keep valuables secure, be aware of your surroundings and use Uber. Bus travel is safe as long as you keep documents on your body at all times on overnight services.

Vaccinations: Check with your travel doctor before visiting. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended for certain regions.

Voltage: Brazil has two voltage standards, depending on the region — check before you plug in.

Best time to visit: Spring (September–November) and Autumn (March–May). The rainy season runs from December to February. Carnival (February/March) is extraordinary but extremely busy and expensive.

 

Chile

Why Chile?

Chile was in many ways the most surprising country of the entire journey — a long, extraordinary sliver of a country running from the driest desert on earth in the north to the glaciers of Patagonia in the south, with Santiago as a genuinely sophisticated and liveable capital in between. We based ourselves in Santiago and used it as a hub for day trips to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar, and as the northern end of our Patagonia bus route.

Santiago — a sophisticated base

Santiago is considerably more developed and cosmopolitan than most first-time visitors to South America expect. The Providencia and Bellavista neighbourhoods in particular — tree-lined, café-filled, safe and walkable — give the city a quality of daily life that compares favourably with any European capital. The Bellavista neighbourhood is a ten-minute walk from our hostel and was the site of some of our best and most affordable meals of the entire South American trip.

The day trip to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar is one of the finest day trips in South America — the colourful hillside city of Valparaíso, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of bohemian streets and extraordinary street art, contrasted with the beach resort elegance of Viña del Mar next door. Allow a full day and go with a guided tour to get the most out of it.

Where we stayed: Ventana Sur Hostel, Claudio Arrau 0340, Providencia — a privately owned hostel that immediately felt like home from the moment we walked through the door. Classical music playing on arrival, Jason, the English-speaking manager offering first-timer advice gently and without pressure, a welcoming pool terrace and a weekly BBQ that Ivan, the owner, put on for all guests. This was our introduction to the hostel culture of South America, and it set the highest possible standard. We instantly felt safe, welcome and among good people.

Book here

Getting there: Santiago Airport is 17km from the city. Book your airport transfer here

Read more: Free Walking Tour Santiago | Valparaíso and Viña del Mar Day Trip

 

Patagonia — the journey of a lifetime

The Patagonia route — crossing in and out of Chile and Argentina on the long bus journey from Ushuaia in the south to Santiago or Bariloche in the north — is the great South American overland adventure. We have covered it in full detail in our dedicated Patagonia guide, but no overview of Chile or Argentina would be complete without naming it as the single most extraordinary travel experience of our entire South American journey.

Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia is the headline attraction — the three granite towers rising from the steppe, the Grey Glacier, the electric blue of Lake Pehoe, the guanacos grazing by the roadside. We visited on a full-day bus tour from Puerto Natales, and it exceeded every expectation. The Perito Moreno Glacier on the Argentine side — standing on the viewing balconies watching enormous slabs of ice crack and thunder into the turquoise water — is one of the great experiences of a lifetime.

Read more: Best Places to Visit in Patagonia — our complete guide

 

Chile Practical Information

Currency: Chilean Peso (CLP). Credit cards are widely accepted throughout Chile. You can drink the tap water in Chile, though the high mineral content can occasionally upset stomachs — bottled water is inexpensive if needed.

Note on accommodation tax: When paying for accommodation in Chile, paying in USD can sometimes allow you to avoid the government VAT — ask at check-in as the rules and eligibility vary.

Language: Spanish.

Safety: Chile is generally safe. Scams and petty theft occur in major cities as they do everywhere — the standard precautions apply.

Reciprocity fee: Chile abolished its reciprocity fee system in 2014. No entry fee is charged at Santiago Airport regardless of nationality.

Vaccinations: Standard vaccinations recommended. If visiting Easter Island, a yellow fever vaccination is required.

Voltage: 220V.

Best time to visit: Spring (September–November) and Autumn (March–May) for Santiago. For Patagonia, October through March offers the best trekking conditions.

Ecuador

Why Ecuador?

Of all the countries in this guide, Ecuador is the one that surprises people most. It is not as famous as Peru or Argentina on the South American circuit, not as dramatic as Patagonia, not as glamorous as Rio. What it is, however, is astonishing in its diversity — four completely different worlds within one small country — and we spent three months there, longer than anywhere else on our entire South American journey.

We arrived in Quito to learn Spanish. We ended up in the Amazon Jungle, the Andean highlands, the Pacific coast and the Galápagos Islands. We were robbed twice, learned more Spanish than we expected, and left with Ecuador permanently on our list of places to return to.

Three months is unusual. But even three weeks gives you enough time to understand why this small country punches so far above its weight.

Read our Ecuador Travel Guide here

Quito — the capital, at an altitude

Quito sits at 2,850 metres above sea level in a long valley between two rows of Andean volcanoes, and the altitude is the first thing you notice on arrival. Allow a day or two to acclimatise before doing anything strenuous. On a clear day, you can see Cotopaxi Volcano from the city, an active volcano 50km to the south that is one of the most extraordinary sights in Ecuador.

Quito’s historic centre — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is one of the best preserved colonial centres in Latin America. The Plaza Independencia is the central square, flanked by the Presidential Palace (open to visitors Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 6.30 pm — take a photocopy of your passport), the Cathedral of Quito, and the Archbishop’s and Municipal Palaces. The Iglesia de San Francisco is one of the finest colonial churches in South America. La Ronda is the bohemian street of the Old Town — cobblestoned, atmospheric, lined with restaurants and bars that come alive on Friday and Saturday evenings.

We took the Free Walking Tour of Quito — led by Ovi from the Community Hostel in the Old Town — and it was one of the finest free walking tours we experienced anywhere in South America. Three hours, completely personalised, covering the Central Market (fresh fruit juices for USD$1, local breakfast for USD$1.80), the Presidential Palace, the Iglesia de San Francisco, the Confiteria el Gato sweet shop on Rocafuerte, and the extraordinary viewpoint of the Virgin of Quito on El Panecillo. Highly recommended.

We also learnt Spanish at Simon Bolívar Spanish School in Mariscal Foch — rated number one in classes and workshops in Quito on TripAdvisor at the time of our visit. As absolute beginners, we survived a week and came out feeling genuinely capable of communicating. Ecuador is one of the cheapest places in South America to learn Spanish, and the schools are excellent.

Mitad del Mundo — the Middle of the Earth monument — is 26km north of Quito and worth a half-day visit. We took local buses for approximately USD$2 return. The GPS-verified equator line is actually 240 metres north of the monument, but you can stand on the true equator line at the Intiñan Solar Museum nearby.

 

Where we stayed in Quito:
Budget: Discovery Quito Hostel, Mariscal Foch E826 — close to restaurants and bars, good public transport to the Old Town, can be a little noisy at night.
Mid-range: Boutique Hotel Antinea, Juan Rodriguez E8-20 — a French-style hotel with patios and free wifi.
Luxury: Casa San Marcos Boutique Hotel, Junin E1-36, Centro Historico — a 17th-century building with an art gallery and restaurant.

Otavalo — the great Andean market town

Two hours north of Quito by bus, Otavalo holds one of the largest artisan markets in South America at Plaza de Ponchos. Saturday is the main market day when the stalls spill over into the surrounding streets and alleyways — textiles, jewellery, woodcarvings, musical instruments and hand-woven rugs in colours that seem impossible until you see them in person. But Otavalo rewards those who stay longer than the day-trippers.

We spent four nights here. We took a tour to the Peguche Waterfalls (3km from town, free), visited Jose Luis Pichamba, who makes traditional Andean musical instruments from bamboo in his workshop on the way back from the falls, and met Jose, 82 years old, still weaving on a traditional loom, who chuckled at our attempts to help with the carding of the wool.

We visited the La Calera community, where a group of women make jewellery from local seeds — work now famous enough to be sold in Paris. We drove to Cotacachi for the leather market. We hiked to Lake Cuicocha — a spectacular caldera at the bottom of Cotacachi Volcano — though note: do not attempt the crater rim hike alone, as there are reported thefts on the trail.

 

Where we stayed: Hostal El Geranio, Calle Ricaurte 101 y Morales — comfortable, well-located, rustic, free wifi and breakfast. We would definitely return.

Cuenca — the city of churches and Panama hats

Cuenca is Ecuador’s third-largest city and, in our opinion, its most beautiful. A UNESCO World Heritage colonial city in the southern Andes, it has a grace and elegance that Quito, for all its energy, lacks. The cobblestone streets of the Historico Centro lead down to the Tomebamba River, where the colonial buildings are reflected in the water. The New Cathedral — Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception — stands majestic in Parque Calderon and can be climbed for USD$1 for the finest 360-degree view of the city.

The flower market at Plaza de las Flores beside the Cathedral is one of the loveliest daily markets we encountered anywhere in South America — fragrant, colourful and completely local. The Mercado Centrale, a few blocks away, is the food market — fresh produce, local food stalls, leather goods and local bakeries where you can buy wholemeal rolls for 12 cents.

Cuenca is also the home of the Panama hat, which is not from Panama at all but from Ecuador, and the finest examples are made in the artisan workshops around Cuenca. We spent considerable time tracking down the right hat at the right price. Our recommendation: avoid the tourist shops on the main street and head to Casa del Sombrero on Tarqui 6-91 — we found excellent quality Montecristi hats for USD$50 each, with wooden travel boxes included and a rolling lesson thrown in. Worth every cent of the research.

 

Where we stayed: Hostal La Cigale and Restaurant — our favourite accommodation in all of Ecuador. A double room with an ensuite, a restaurant open for all meals that is filled with locals at 6 pm, daily cake and tea specials at 3 pm and a happy hour from 5–8 pm. We did not want to leave.

Where to eat: Le Petit Jardin — a family-run restaurant just outside Cuenca serving local produce-inspired dishes. Our favourite restaurant in Cuenca.

The Amazon Jungle

On the recommendation of two female travellers at our accommodation, we added a four-day Cuyabeno Amazon jungle experience to our Ecuador itinerary — and it was one of the best spontaneous decisions of the entire trip. Cruising down the rivers in search of pink dolphins, a night jungle hike and visiting a local community with a Shaman experience. Book here

 

The Galápagos Islands — Ecuador’s greatest wonder

The Galápagos Islands are 1,000km off the coast of Ecuador — an archipelago of 18 main islands that is unlike anywhere else on earth. The wildlife has evolved in the absence of natural predators and is entirely unafraid of humans: you stand two feet from a blue-footed booby, and it looks back at you with curious indifference. Marine iguanas sun themselves on rocks as you step around them. Sea lions colonise the town benches. Giant Galápagos tortoises move through the vegetation with an unhurried authority that reminds you they have been doing this for millions of years.

It is an expensive destination — the entry tax alone is USD$100 for adults (USD$50 for children), and flights from Quito add further cost. But it is also entirely unlike anything else you will experience in a lifetime of travel, and we do not hesitate to recommend it as a once-in-a-lifetime priority.

We stayed on two islands: San Cristóbal (at Hostal Terito — small, family-run, comfortable, affordable, the owner collected us from the airport, breakfast included) and Santa Cruz (at Lava House — small, centrally located, affordable, breakfast and free wifi included). We travelled between the islands by inter-island ferry.

Book Hostal Terito here

Book Lava House here

 

 

Read more: 5 Things to Do in the Galápagos Islands

Canoa — six weeks on the Pacific coast

Canoa is a laid-back surfers’ town on Ecuador’s Pacific coast, 369km from Quito. We spent six weeks here, and it was the longest we stayed anywhere in South America. The beach stretches in both directions as far as you can see, the restaurant scene on the Malecón is excellent, and the pace of life is exactly what you need after months of cities and mountains. A major earthquake devastated the town a few years ago, and the community rebuilt with remarkable resilience — visiting Canoa supports that recovery.

Our favourite restaurants: the Surf Shack and the Hotel Bambu Restaurant, both on the Canoa Malecón.

Ecuador Practical Information

Currency: Ecuador uses the US Dollar (USD) — it adopted it in 2000, and it remains the national currency. This makes budgeting extremely straightforward for Australian and US travellers.

Safety — this is a must-read: Ecuador requires more vigilance than Argentina or Chile. We were robbed twice during our three months — our passports and credit cards were stolen at the Quito bus station on the way to Otavalo (a common scam involving a fake bus employee directing you to store your daypack under the seat), and our laptop was stolen in Canoa. These experiences were distressing but did not ruin the trip — they taught us to be considerably more careful.

Our recommendations: keep all valuables in a body belt or secured bag at all times, never let your credit card leave your hand during a transaction, take only photocopies of your passport when out and keep the original in the hotel safe, and be aware of the bird-poo scam (someone squirts sauce on you and uses the distraction to pickpocket you). None of this should put you off Ecuador — but do go in with your eyes open.

Language: Spanish throughout. Very little English is spoken outside major tourist areas. We took a one-week Spanish course in Quito (Simon Bolívar School), which we strongly recommend — it made our three months significantly easier and more enjoyable.

Altitude: Quito, Cuenca and the Andean highlands are at a significant altitude. Allow two days to acclimatise before any strenuous activity.

Alcohol at altitude: Alcohol affects you much more quickly at altitude. One drink at sea level is two drinks in Quito. Be aware.

Food: The almuerzo (set lunch) is the best value meal in Ecuador — typically USD$3–4 for rice, stew, juice and dessert. Eat lunch like a local, and you will eat well for almost nothing.

Emergency number: 911 for police, fire and ambulance throughout Ecuador.

Voltage: 120V (the same as North America).

Visa: Most nationalities can stay up to 90 days visa-free. Your passport must have at least 6 months’ validity, and you should carry an onward ticket.

Best time to visit: The dry season is May to December. The wet season runs from December to April. The Galápagos is best visited from June to November during the cool dry season.

Read more: Ecuador Vacation Travel Guide for First Timers

Peru

Why Peru?

Peru was the country we most anticipated before leaving Australia — and the one that most consistently delivered on every expectation.

• Machu Picchu after four days of trekking the Inca Trail.
• Cusco, at an altitude with its extraordinary colonial architecture built on Inca foundations.
• Lima’s Miraflores neighbourhood by the Pacific.
• Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley.

Peru is one of the great travel destinations on earth, and we recommend spending a minimum of three weeks — ideally more.

Cusco — the Inca capital at an altitude

Cusco sits at 3,400 metres above sea level and was the capital of the Inca Empire — the largest empire in pre-Columbian America. The Spanish conquistadors built their colonial city directly on top of the Inca structures, and the result is one of the most extraordinary urban landscapes in the world: Spanish baroque churches rising from Inca stone foundations, narrow cobblestone streets connecting colonial plazas that were once Inca ceremonial spaces.

Allow time to acclimatise — at least two days before attempting any strenuous activity or the Inca Trail. The altitude is significant, and it affects everyone differently. Coca tea (mate de coca), available everywhere, is the traditional local remedy.

The Cusco food scene has developed remarkably in recent years and is now one of the finest in South America. The San Blas neighbourhood — where we stayed — is the artisan quarter above the main plaza, steep, narrow and genuinely beautiful, close to restaurants, bars and the Inca Trail travel agencies.

Good to know: if you would like to take a photo of the local people and their llamas, you will need to pay. Do not take a photo without asking permission.

What to do in Cusco: The Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) full-day tour is one of the most photographed landscapes in Peru — a glacial mountain with extraordinary natural striations of colour. The Sacred Valley full-day tour with lunch covers the extraordinary Inca terracing at Pisac and the fortress at Ollantaytambo. The half-day city tour covers the four main Inca ruins surrounding Cusco — Sacsayhuamán, Qenko, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. The 6-hour walking tour of Cusco’s key sites is the best introduction to the city’s layered history.

Book your Rainbow Mountain tour here

Book your Sacred Valley Tour with lunch here

Book your half-day city tour here

 

Where we stayed: Tikawasi Casa Boutique Hotel, Calle Tandapata No 491, San Blas — affordable, excellent reviews, close to the Inca Trail agencies and the main sites. Beautiful garden area for recovering from the altitude. Outstanding staff. The breakfast terrace on the upper floor with panoramic views of Cusco at sunset was one of the quiet pleasures of the entire trip.

Ollantaytambo — the gateway to Machu Picchu

Ollantaytambo is a small town in the Sacred Valley, 60km northwest of Cusco, and one of the few places in Peru where the original Inca town plan still survives intact, with the same irrigation channels and stone streets in use today as they were 600 years ago. It is the train departure point for Aguas Calientes (the town below Machu Picchu) and an ideal place to spend a night or two before the trek — both to practise climbing the Inca ruins on the hillside above the town and to acclimatise further before the trail.

The plaza area has excellent restaurants and bars, and a warmth that the more tourist-saturated Cusco can sometimes lack. We recommend it enthusiastically as a stop in its own right, not just a logistical base.

Have an unforgettable experience visiting the Sacred Valley. Visiting the salt mines of Maras and the agricultural terraces of Moray on this tour from Ollantaytambo. Book here

Step into the past on a guided tour of the Ancestral Route of the Inca Camelids or Llamas in Ollantaytambo. Follow the same trails once used by ancient caravans and learn about the Inca Empire. Book here

 

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu — four days that change you

The four-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is one of the great treks in the world — and arriving at the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) on the morning of the fourth day, exhausted, with the ancient citadel spread below you in the early morning mist, is one of the most memorable moments of our entire travelling lives.

The trail is 43km of Inca stone path through cloud forest and mountain passes, reaching its highest point at Dead Woman’s Pass at 4,215 metres. It is a genuine physical challenge — particularly at altitude — but one that is entirely achievable for fit travellers of any age with proper preparation.

Critical booking information: Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail have strict visitor limits enforced by the Peruvian government. Inca Trail permits sell out months in advance — sometimes within hours of release. Book your tour operator at least six months ahead, ideally earlier, for the peak season of June to August. All trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide — independent trekking is not permitted. Permits are non-transferable and non-refundable.

For those who cannot or prefer not to trek, the train journey from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes provides access to Machu Picchu itself. The citadel also requires advance ticket booking through the official Peruvian government portal. Do not leave this until the last minute — the site reaches its daily visitor capacity and turns visitors away.

Read more: Inca Trail to Machu Picchu — our full account of the four-day trek

 

Lima — the coastal capital

Lima is a sprawling Pacific coast city that most travellers pass through quickly on the way to Cusco. We recommend spending at least three days and staying in Miraflores — the upscale coastal neighbourhood perched on cliffs above the Pacific, with excellent restaurants, a pleasant waterfront park and Larcomar shopping centre built into the cliff face.

Lima’s food scene is one of the finest in South America — the city has produced some of the world’s great chefs and the ceviche here, made with the freshest Pacific seafood, is the best we ate anywhere on the continent. The historic downtown — the Plaza Mayor, the Cathedral, the Monastery of San Francisco with its extraordinary catacombs — is a 30-minute drive from Miraflores and worth a half-day visit.

The Temple of Pachacamac — an extensive pre-Inca and Inca archaeological complex 30km south of Lima — makes an excellent half-day tour and is consistently underrated relative to how impressive it actually is.

Getting there: Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport is 21km from Miraflores. Book a pre-arranged transfer rather than taking a taxi from the street at arrivals.

 

Peru Practical Information

Currency: Peruvian Sol (PEN). Credit cards are widely accepted in cities. Carry cash for markets, smaller restaurants and transportation.

Language: Spanish, with Quechua widely spoken in the Andean highlands and the Sacred Valley.

Safety: Peru is generally safe in the main tourist areas. In Cusco, be aware of ATM security — we had a security issue with an ATM in San Blas and would recommend using banks on the main street rather than standalone ATMs in quieter locations.

Altitude: Cusco, Ollantaytambo, the Inca Trail and the high passes all involve significant altitude. Acclimatise seriously — at least two full days in Cusco before the trail. Diamox (acetazolamide) can help with altitude sickness and is available from pharmacies in Cusco and from your travel doctor before departure.

Minimum time recommended: Three weeks. Peru is large, the distances between sites are significant, and the experience of each place rewards time. Rushing Peru is one of the most common travel regrets we hear from other travellers.

Best time to visit: May to September is the dry season and the best trekking weather. June to August is peak season with maximum crowds and prices. April and October offer excellent conditions with fewer visitors.

A Final Note — South America Will Change You

We left Sydney in 2013 with no idea what to expect. What we came back with — eventually, after six months on the road — was a completely different sense of what the world is and what is possible in it.

South America is not always easy. The distances are vast, the logistics occasionally complicated, the safety considerations real. But the rewards — standing at the base of Torres del Paine, watching the sun rise over Machu Picchu, learning that an 82-year-old man in Otavalo can card wool faster than you ever will, sitting on a beach in Canoa for six weeks with no particular reason to be anywhere else — are unlike anything else we have experienced in seventy countries across six continents.

Go. Give it time. Travel by bus. Talk to people. And carry your passport in a body belt.

Frequently Asked Questions About Travelling South America

Which is the safest country in South America to visit?

Argentina is our consistent recommendation as the safest country in South America for first-time visitors. We have travelled there twice and found it consistently safe, welcoming and well set up for independent travellers. Chile is also very safe throughout. Peru and Ecuador require more awareness — particularly in crowded areas, on public transport and around ATMs. Brazil requires the most vigilance of the five countries in this guide, particularly in Rio and São Paulo, though both cities are very manageable with sensible precautions. The key rule across all five countries: keep valuables secure, use Uber rather than street taxis in cities, and keep important documents on your body rather than in bags.

Which is the cheapest country in South America to visit?

Peru, Ecuador and Paraguay are among the most budget-friendly destinations in South America, with daily expenses ranging from USD $25–$40 for budget travellers. Of our five countries, Ecuador and Peru offer the best value — Ecuador uses the US Dollar, which makes budgeting simple, and the almuerzo (set lunch) for USD $3–4 is one of the great travel bargains anywhere in the world. Chile, Brazil and Uruguay sit at the higher end, with daily expenses upwards of USD $70–80 for similar travel styles. Argentina sits in the middle, but its value fluctuates significantly depending on how you exchange money — always use Wise or a similar service rather than official bank channels to get the best rate. 

How long should I allow for South America?

For all five countries in this guide, done properly — not rushed — allow a minimum of three months. For a first trip covering the highlights of two or three countries, six to eight weeks is a realistic minimum. Peru alone warrants three weeks. Ecuador, given its extraordinary diversity from the Amazon to the coast to Galápagos, rewards a month or more. The single most common regret we hear from South American travellers is not allowing enough time. Budget for longer than you think you need.

Do I need to learn Spanish before I go?

For Ecuador, Peru and Argentina, some Spanish is strongly recommended — English is spoken in tourist areas but not reliably elsewhere. We took a one-week Spanish course at Simon Bolívar School in Quito before our South American journey, and it made an enormous difference. The Duolingo app covers the basics and is worth using in the months before you travel. For Brazil, note that the language is Portuguese — not Spanish — and Duolingo covers Portuguese as a separate course.

Is bus travel safe in South America?

Yes — bus travel across South America is the standard way to get around, and the services are generally comfortable and reliable. The key safety rule: always keep your travel documents, cards and valuables on your body rather than in bags in the luggage hold or overhead racks. On overnight buses in particular, wear a money belt and keep your passport on you at all times. We took overnight buses throughout Argentina, Chile, Peru and Ecuador without incident.

What vaccinations do I need for South America?

Requirements vary by country and region. Check with your travel doctor before departure — we recommend doing this at least six to eight weeks before you leave. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended for Brazil and Ecuador if visiting jungle regions, and required for Easter Island (Chile). Hepatitis A and B, typhoid and tetanus are generally recommended across all five countries. Malaria prophylaxis may be recommended for the Amazon regions.

Do I need travel insurance for South America?

Absolutely — this is non-negotiable. We cannot stress this strongly enough. We were robbed twice in Ecuador and were enormously grateful to have comprehensive travel insurance covering document replacement, emergency funds and medical cover. Take out insurance the moment you pay your first travel deposit — not when you are about to depart. Purchase here

When is the best time to visit South America?

It varies significantly by country and region.

For Patagonia (Chile and Argentina), October to March offers the best trekking conditions.

For Peru’s Inca Trail, May to September is the dry season with the best weather, but June to August is peak season with maximum crowds and prices; April and October offer excellent conditions with fewer visitors.

For Ecuador, the dry season is May to December.

For Brazil, avoid the December to February rainy season if possible; Carnival (February/March) is extraordinary but very expensive. For Buenos Aires and Santiago, spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May) are the most comfortable seasons.

How do I book Machu Picchu tickets?

As of 2026, Machu Picchu entry tickets and Inca Trail permits are now two separate purchases — the trail permit no longer includes entry to the citadel. Both must be booked well in advance through your licensed tour operator. For peak season (June to August), Inca Trail permits sell out six or more months ahead — book in October when the following year’s permits are released. Do not leave either booking until the last minute — the site enforces strict daily visitor limits and turns visitors away when capacity is reached. If you cannot secure Inca Trail permits, the Salkantay Trek is an excellent alternative that does not require advance permits and delivers equally breathtaking scenery. 

Can I drink the water in South America?

In Chile, yes — the tap water is safe to drink throughout the country, though the high mineral content can occasionally upset stomachs.

In Argentina, tap water in Buenos Aires is technically safe but many travellers prefer bottled.

In Peru, Ecuador and Brazil, drink bottled or filtered water only — do not drink tap water and avoid ice in drinks from street stalls.

What is the best currency strategy for South America?

Each country is different. Ecuador uses the US Dollar — no currency strategy needed.

Chile, Peru and Brazil accept credit cards widely and have reliable ATMs.

Argentina is the most complex — the gap between the official exchange rate and the informal rate can be significant, and carrying USD cash to exchange through services like Wise gives you a considerably better rate than using local ATMs or bank exchange counters. Bring crisp, undamaged USD notes as many money changers reject worn or marked bills. Throughout South America, keep a small amount of local cash for markets, small restaurants and tips.

What Does It Cost to Travel South America? A 2026 Budget Guide

South America offers extraordinary value — but the costs vary dramatically between countries, between cities, and between the standard tourist sites and the remote experiences. Here is an honest breakdown.

Daily Budget by Country

The least expensive countries for travel in South America are currently Colombia at USD $55 per day, Bolivia at USD $63, Argentina at USD $70, and Ecuador at USD $75. Chile sits at the higher end, at approximately USD $128 per day. 

For our five countries specifically, here is what to budget per person per day for a mid-range independent traveller — private room with ensuite, mix of local restaurants and occasional splurges, bus transport and activities:

Ecuador: USD $35–55 per day on the mainland — one of the best value countries in South America for the quality of experience delivered. Budget separately for the Galápagos — see below. 

Peru: USD $30–40 per day for budget travellers, rising to USD $60–80 for mid-range. Budget separately for Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail — see below. 

Argentina: USD $70–120 per day for mid-range travel, depending significantly on your exchange rate strategy. Buenos Aires is the most expensive city; Mendoza and Patagonian towns are considerably cheaper.

Brazil: USD $70–80 per day and upwards for mid-range travel — the most expensive of the five countries in this guide. Rio and São Paulo in particular push daily costs up. 

Chile: USD $70–80 per day and upwards for mid-range travel. Santiago is the most expensive city; Patagonia runs higher again — see our dedicated Patagonia pricing guide.

The Big Ticket Items — What to Budget Separately

Inca Trail and Machu Picchu: The classic 4-day Inca Trail costs USD $620–900 for budget operators, USD $900–1,400 for mid-range, and USD $1,500–2,500 for premium services — including the mandatory government permit fee, guide, camping equipment, meals and porter support.

From 2026, Machu Picchu entry tickets must be purchased separately at USD $65 per person — this is a new requirement and adds both cost and booking complexity. Budget USD $800–1,400 total per person for the complete Inca Trail experience, including pre and post-trek accommodation in Cusco. Book your operator at least six months in advance — peak season permits sell out within hours of release in October. 

The Galápagos Islands: All international visitors pay a mandatory national parks entrance fee of USD $100 on arrival, plus a USD $20 transit control card. Round-trip flights from mainland Ecuador typically add USD $300–500. Land-based travellers generally spend USD $150 per day on accommodation and day trips. Multi-day cruises range from USD $2,000 to over USD $8,000 for an 8-day itinerary. The Galápagos is a separate budget tier entirely — plan for it as a distinct financial commitment. 

Iguazu Falls: Admission to Iguazu Falls is approximately USD $20 on the Argentine side. The Brazilian side runs slightly less. We recommend budgeting for both — they are genuinely different experiences and visiting only one side is, in our view, incomplete. 

Patagonia: See our dedicated Patagonia pricing guide for the full breakdown. Patagonia runs considerably more expensive than the rest of South America — budget USD $130–180 per person per day for mid-range travel on the overland route.

Getting Around — Transport Costs

Bus travel is the backbone of independent South American travel and the most affordable way to cover the enormous distances involved.

A 9-hour overnight bus journey in Ecuador costs approximately USD $14. In Argentina and Chile, longer intercity buses run for USD $30–60, depending on distance and service class. Premium bus services (fully reclining seats, meals included) cost more but are well worth it on the overnight routes. Always book in advance for the Patagonia routes and during peak season throughout. 

Food Costs

Ecuador and Peru offer the best food value of the five countries. The set-menu almuerzo (lunch) across South America typically costs USD $3–5 for a three-course meal — rice, stew or soup, a main dish, juice and sometimes dessert. This is the single best value meal on the continent, and eating it daily will dramatically reduce your food budget. Basic meals at local restaurants cost around USD $3.50 in Ecuador; mid-range restaurant meals cost USD $6.50 and upwards. In Buenos Aires, Rio and Santiago, mid-range restaurant dining runs USD $15–30 per person

Overall Trip Budget — What to Expect

As a general rule across South America, budget approximately USD $1,000 per person per month — though this depends greatly on which countries you visit and how you travel. 

For a budget-conscious trip of three months covering all five countries — private hostel rooms, local food, bus transport, budget tour operators for Machu Picchu and the Galápagos — budget approximately USD $4,000–5,500 per person all-in excluding international flights.

For a mid-range trip of three months — comfortable private rooms, mix of local and restaurant dining, mid-range Inca Trail operator, land-based Galápagos — budget approximately USD $7,000–10,000 per person all-in excluding international flights.

The most expensive individual items on any South American trip are the Galápagos Islands, the Inca Trail, Patagonia and international flights. Budget for these first and build the rest of your costs around them.

 

 

 

Related Reading

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