Ha Long Bay Vietnam — The Complete Guide Including Our 2-Night Emeraude Cruise Review

There are places in the world that exceed every expectation, regardless of how many photographs you have seen beforehand. Ha Long Bay is one of them.

We had seen the photographs for years before we visited — thousands of them, on travel blogs, in magazines, on the walls of Vietnamese restaurants. Limestone karsts rising from green water. Junks and sampans threading between islands in the morning mist. The particular quality of the light at dawn, when the fog sits in the valleys between the rocks and the water is absolutely still. We thought we were prepared.

We were not prepared.

Sailing out of Ha Long City on a still September morning aboard the Emeraude — a vintage paddle steamer modelled on a French colonial vessel that sank off the Vietnamese coast in 1937 — and watching the bay open around us as the first karsts appeared was one of the genuinely wordless moments of our three months in Vietnam. No photograph prepares you for the scale. No description prepares you for the silence. And no day trip from Hanoi prepares you for the particular quality of waking up in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage Site with nothing around you in every direction except water and ancient stone.

This guide covers everything you need to plan your Ha Long Bay visit — what it is, how to get there, how many days to spend, which cruise option is right for you — and our honest review of two nights aboard the Emeraude.

Disclosure: Our 2-night cruise on Ha Long Bay was sponsored by Victoria Voyages. Our opinions are our own. Please note that since our visit the Emeraude Classic has changed management and is now operated by Emeraude Cruises under the Thien Minh Group — we note this clearly in the Emeraude section below.

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What is Ha Long Bay?

Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the northeastern coast of Vietnam, approximately 170km from Hanoi in Quang Ninh Province. The bay covers 1,553 square kilometres and contains nearly 2,000 limestone karst islands and islets — volcanic columns of rock that rise dramatically from the emerald-green water, many forested to the waterline, some housing hidden caves, deserted beaches and the extraordinary formations that have made the bay famous across the world.

In Vietnamese, Ha Long (Hạ Long) means “Descending Dragon.” Ha means “descending,” Long means “dragon” — a reference to the ancient legend in which the gods sent a family of dragons to protect the Vietnamese people from invaders by spitting jade and jewels into the sea. The jewels turned into the islands and islets, linking together to form a wall against the invaders. The dragons, so taken by the beauty of the landscape they had created, decided to stay. The mother dragon descended into what is now Ha Long Bay. Her children descended into Bai Tu Long Bay to the east.

The geology tells a different story — an equally extraordinary one. The karst formations of Ha Long Bay were created by the dissolution of limestone over 500 million years, with tectonic movements and sea level changes gradually exposing the formations above the water line. The process continues — the bay is still slowly changing. Some of the caves within the karsts contain stalactites and stalagmites that formed over hundreds of thousands of years.

Ha Long Bay was first listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 for its outstanding natural beauty. In 2000, it received a second UNESCO listing for its geological significance. In 2011, it was voted one of the Seven New Wonders of the World. Approximately eight million tourists visit annually, making careful timing and good cruise selection genuinely important for the quality of your experience.

Ha Long Bay or Lan Ha Bay — An Important 2026 Decision

Before you book any cruise, there is a choice that significantly affects your experience and your budget that most Ha Long Bay articles do not adequately explain.

Ha Long Bay is the famous bay — the central UNESCO site, home to the most photographed karsts, the most visited caves (Sung Sot, Thien Cung, Dau Go) and the highest concentration of cruise boats. In peak season, the main boat traffic areas can be genuinely crowded — dozens of cruise boats moored in the same anchorage, tour groups moving through the most popular caves in dense lines.

Lan Ha Bay — the adjacent bay to the south, connected to Ha Long Bay and part of the same broader karst landscape — offers equally dramatic scenery with significantly fewer boats. Lan Ha Bay is accessible from Cat Ba Island and requires a slightly longer transfer from Hanoi (approximately 3–3.5 hours versus 2.5 hours to Ha Long City), but the reward is the same limestone karst landscape with dramatically fewer cruise vessels sharing the water. Lan Ha Bay cruises typically cost USD $20–50 per person, less than equivalent Ha Long Bay cruises.

Bai Tu Long Bay, to the northeast of Ha Long Bay, offers a third option — even less visited than Lan Ha Bay, reaching areas that most Ha Long Bay cruises never access, and typically only available on 3-night or longer itineraries.

Our recommendation for 2026: For a 1-night cruise on a budget, Ha Long Bay is fine — the main sites are excellent and the logistics are simpler. For a 2-night cruise where you have time to explore beyond the main tourist circuit, Lan Ha Bay deserves serious consideration. The Emeraude operates in Ha Long Bay specifically — which is why we are recommending it — but we want you to make an informed choice.

How to Get to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi

By organised cruise transfer: The most common and most practical option. Most cruises include a return coach transfer from Hanoi as part of the package — departing from your hotel or a central meeting point in Hanoi at approximately 7:30–8:30 am, arriving at Ha Long City pier at approximately 11:00–11:30 am. The journey takes 3–4 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. On our visit, Victoria Voyages collected us by private luxury minibus — comfortable and efficient.

By public bus: Hanoi to Ha Long City by public bus costs approximately 120,000–200,000 VND (approximately USD $5–8 / AUD $8–12) and takes 3.5–4.5 hours from Hanoi My Dinh bus station. From Ha Long bus station, a taxi to the cruise pier costs approximately 50,000–100,000 VND. This is the most affordable option — suitable for budget travellers who have booked a cruise and transfer separately.

By seaplane: Vietnam Air Services Company (VASCO) operates a seaplane service from Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport directly to Ha Long Bay — a 45-minute flight covering the 170km journey above the landscape you are about to explore at water level. A genuinely extraordinary way to arrive. Prices start from approximately USD $150–200 per person one way. Book well in advance.

Important timing note: Most Ha Long Bay cruises board between 11:30 am and noon. The transfer from Hanoi needs to depart by 8:00–8:30 am at the absolute latest to arrive on time. Do not book a morning flight into Hanoi on the day of your cruise — this is the most common mistake made by first-time visitors and results in missed boarding. Arrive in Hanoi the night before.

Read our article How to Get to Halong Bay here

How Many Days Should You Spend on Ha Long Bay?

One day: A day cruise is the minimum to experience Ha Long Bay at all, covering the main sites (1–2 caves, kayaking or a beach stop) in 4–8 hours before returning to Hanoi. The transfer from Hanoi is 3–4 hours each way, making the total day 10–12 hours for approximately 4–6 hours on the water. Entirely worthwhile if time does not allow more, but a preview rather than an experience.

One night (2 days): The most popular option and the sweet spot for most travellers. You arrive around noon, spend the afternoon exploring, sleep on the water, wake up in the bay at dawn, explore for another morning and return to Hanoi by mid-afternoon. Two nights would have been better — but one night delivers the essential Ha Long Bay experience, including the extraordinary dawn on the water.

Two nights (3 days): Our recommendation and our personal experience. Two nights give you time to relax. Time to sit on the sun deck in the morning without feeling rushed to the next activity. Time to attempt the Tai Chi class at sunrise. Time to explore additional caves and islands beyond the main tourist circuit. Time for the bay to become genuinely familiar rather than simply impressive. The second night on the water is significantly more relaxing than the first because you have stopped being a tourist and started being a guest of the bay.

Three nights or more: For the most independent travellers and the most determined explorers — reaching Bai Tu Long Bay and the areas of the broader Ha Long region that shorter cruises never access. A small number of specialist operators offer extended itineraries.

The Legends of Ha Long Bay

Before we get to the Emeraude itself, the legends — because Ha Long Bay has three of the finest we encountered in three months of travelling Vietnam, and they are worth knowing before you see the landscape they describe.

The Legend of Ha Long Bay — The Descending Dragon

When Vietnam had just started to develop as a country, the Vietnamese people had to fight against invaders from the north. To assist the Vietnamese people in defending their country, the gods sent a family of dragons as protectors. This family of dragons began spitting out jewels and jade. These jewels turned into the islands and islets dotting the bay, linking together to form a great wall against the invaders. The invaders’ ships struck the rocks and each other. After the battle was won, the dragons were so taken by the peaceful beauty of the Earth below them that they decided to stay. The place where the mother dragon descended was named Ha Long. The place where the dragon’s children came to attend upon their mother was called Bai Tu Long (Bai: attend upon, Tu: children, Long: dragon). The place where the children wriggled their tails violently was called Bach Long Vy — the present-day Tra Co peninsula.

A later legend notes that in 1898, a French Sub-Lieutenant named Lagredin reported seeing a huge sea creature in Ha Long Bay that could only be described as a dragon. The headline “Dragon Appears on Ha Long Bay” ran in the Hai Phong News. The legend and the bay reinforced each other.

The Legend of Sung Sot Cave — Thanh Giong and the Sword

Inside the first cave we visited — Sung Sot Cave, the Surprise Cave — there is a stalactite that resembles a sword and a horse. The legend of Thanh Giong explains why they are there.

The legend dates to the 6th King Hung Dynasty, approximately 1220–1225 BC. A woman walked through a field and came upon a large footprint. She fell pregnant and gave birth nine months later to a boy named Giong. Until the age of three, Giong could not speak, smile or walk. When invaders threatened the kingdom, the King sent messengers out seeking warriors. Giong miraculously began to speak — and asked his mother to tell the messenger he would join the battle, requesting iron armour, an iron sword and an iron horse. The king’s blacksmiths built what was asked. Giong set forth, defeated the invading army and then ascended to Heaven. The sword and the horse he left behind in Sung Sot Cave have protected Ha Long Bay from evil demons ever since.

The Legend of Titov Island — the Russian Cosmonaut

The third and most unexpected legend of Ha Long Bay involves a Russian cosmonaut, Ho Chi Minh and the naming of a Vietnamese island.

Titov Island — visible from the Emeraude on the morning of Day Three — was originally called Cat Nang Island. Its current name comes from Gherman Titov, the Soviet cosmonaut who became the second human being to orbit the Earth in 1961 aboard Vostok 2. In 1962, when Titov toured Vietnam as part of a Soviet-Vietnamese friendship delegation, Ho Chi Minh consulted with the local people about the visit. As a gesture of friendship with the Soviet Union, he renamed the island after the cosmonaut. Titov Island has been ever since one of the few islands in Ha Long Bay named after a human being, and one of the very few places in the world named after a man who once circled the earth at 17,000 miles per hour.

The island also carries a sadder history. In 1905, a French cargo ship was caught in a storm and floundered on the rocks surrounding the island. All on board lost their lives. They are buried on the island. Cemetery Island is its other name.

If you climb the 427 steps to the top of Titov Island — which we did, and which rewards the effort — the view over Ha Long Bay from above is one of the finest available from any land-based vantage point in the bay.

The Legend of Emeraude — The Ship We Sailed On

Of all the legends of Ha Long Bay, the story of the Emeraude is the one we find most extraordinary — because it is the most recent, and because it began at a flea market in Paris on a December afternoon in 1999.

Eric Merlin was browsing the St Ouen flea market on the outskirts of Paris when he came across a box of postcards marked “Indochine.” In the box, he found two postcards from the era 1916–1919 depicting two paddle steamers on Ha Long Bay. Taking out his magnifying glass, he could read the names on both vessels: Emeraude and Perle.

Eric Merlin lived and worked in Vietnam — he had been running a successful travel company, Exotissimo, since 1993 in Ho Chi Minh City. He returned to Vietnam with the postcards and a dream. Not content to wait for that dream to materialise, he went about designing a replica of Emeraude and commissioned a boat builder to construct it. In January 2003, construction began. The new Emeraude launched in December 2003 and sailed on its maiden voyage across Ha Long Bay — faithful in every detail to the 20th-century original.

Meanwhile, Merlin never gave up his search for the original vessel. Through the Maritime Museum in Paris and a central archive in Aix-en-Provence, he traced the original Emeraude to a French barge and towing company called SACRUC owned by a man named Paul Roque. In July 2003, he met the 76-year-old son of Paul Roque — Xavier Roque — in Paris.

Paul Roque had arrived in Hai Phong — founded in 1888 as a major port city 120km east of Hanoi — and taken delivery of four custom-built paddle steamers: the Saphir, Rubis, Perle and Emeraude. They were 80-ton single-wheeled paddle steamers providing regular passenger and freight service around Ha Long Bay and the Red River delta. The passengers travelled in what was, for 1906, genuine luxury: electric lighting, fans, bathrooms, refrigerators and even a darkroom for photographers.

On 16th March 1937, on its return from one of its many journeys, the original Emeraude collided with a submerged rock seven kilometres from Cam Pha port. A large hole appeared in the hull. The Emeraude sank. No lives were lost. The original Emeraude remains at the bottom of Ha Long Bay to this day.

The replica Emeraude that Eric Merlin built from a Paris flea market postcard has been sailing Ha Long Bay ever since.

A 2026 update on the Emeraude: Since our visit, the Emeraude Classic has changed management. It is now operated by Emeraude Cruises under the Thien Minh Group — one of Vietnam’s leading hospitality companies, which has managed the vessel since 2004. The ship itself has been expanded to accommodate up to 80 guests across 39 full-view cabins and suites, with updated safety systems alongside the vintage décor that defines the Emeraude experience. A sister vessel — the Emeraude Premium — has also been added to the fleet. The Eric Merlin origin story remains. The French colonial aesthetic remains. The paddle wheel at the stern — now a swimming deck rather than a propulsion system — remains. What has changed is the management and the scale. 

Book your Emeraude cruise here

Our 2-Night Emeraude Cruise Experience

Our 2-night cruise began in Hanoi, where a private luxury minibus collected us for the 3–4-hour transfer to Ha Long City. On arrival, we transferred to the Victoria Voyages lounge while our luggage was taken to our cabin.

The Captain’s Suite

We spent our two nights in the Captain’s Suite on the top deck — and it set a standard for cabin accommodation on a Vietnamese cruise that we are unlikely to forget. Dark wooden floorboards. Dark wood panelling throughout. A king-sized bed with gold and cream linens and genuine luxury pillows. An oversized white-tiled bathroom with a separate shower and luxury toiletries. Fluffy robes and towels of the kind you would expect at a five-star land-based hotel. And the particular quality of sleeping on the water — the gentle rocking of the vessel as Ha Long Bay moved around us in the darkness — that no hotel room can replicate.

The Paul Roque Suite — named for the owner of the original fleet — is available for those who want to book the same cabin Anthony Bourdain stayed in. More on that below.

Day One — Settling In and Sung Sot Cave

After boarding and a welcome drink, a buffet lunch was served in the restaurant on the lower deck — our first opportunity to meet the other passengers, a small group from Australia, France and the United States, and to compare notes on what had brought us all to Ha Long Bay.

After lunch, a guided shore excursion to Sung Sot Cave — the Surprise Cave — was our first activity on the water. Sung Sot is the largest cave in Ha Long Bay and lives up to its name: the interior is vast, the stalactite formations extraordinary, and the stalactite resembling a sword and horse (the Thanh Giong legend described above) is exactly as remarkable as the legend promises.

On return to the Emeraude, freshly made French mini crepes were served on the Sun Deck — a perfect late-afternoon snack as the vessel sailed toward its next anchorage. This became a pattern of the cruise that we loved: after each shore excursion, a simple, excellent food moment on the sun deck as Ha Long Bay moved past on all sides.

Happy Hour on the Sun Deck as the sun descended was the highlight of Day One’s closing hours — a cold Tiger beer (or a cocktail if you preferred) in the warm evening light as the limestone karsts turned gold around us. The chef also demonstrated Vietnamese spring roll making during Happy Hour if you were interested — they made it look effortless, which it absolutely is not. The knack is in the rolling of the rice paper without all the ingredients escaping immediately. I tried. I was less successful than I had hoped.

A buffet dinner in the restaurant was followed by an evening on the sun deck with a nightcap and the particular silence of Ha Long Bay after dark — no city noise, no traffic, no light pollution beyond the vessel’s own lights and the faint glow of the other anchored cruise ships in the distance. The stars over Ha Long Bay are extraordinary.

Day Two — Tai Chi at Sunrise, Fairy Lake Cave and Kayaking

I set the alarm for 6:00 am. I recommend that you do the same.

The sun deck of the Emeraude at 6:00 am on a September morning in Ha Long Bay is one of the finest places we have been in Vietnam. Coffee, tea and pastries were available — I took coffee and stood at the rail watching the bay emerge from the dawn mist as the sun came up over the karsts. It is impossible to describe adequately. The water was completely still. The limestone formations appeared as dark shapes in the mist and gradually took on colour and definition as the light built. There were no other sounds beyond the water and the occasional bird.

If you have not tried Tai Chi before, this is your opportunity. The morning Tai Chi class on the Emeraude sun deck — conducted by a crew member at 6:30 am as Ha Long Bay wakes up around you — is one of the genuinely memorable experiences of the cruise. The main purpose of Tai Chi is to cultivate the internal energy (chi) to flow smoothly through the body. At dawn on Ha Long Bay, with the mist on the water and the limestone karsts visible in every direction, the setting is as close to perfect as a Tai Chi location can be. A second class is held on the third morning.

After a full breakfast, we departed at 8:00 am for a full-day excursion on a smaller day cruise boat — allowing access to sections of the bay too shallow for the Emeraude.

Our first stop was Ho Dong Tien Cave — Fairy Lake Cave. Two chambers separated by a narrow tunnel: the first containing unusually shaped stalagmites that reach from ceiling to floor, the second opening onto a crystal-clear lake surrounded by steep limestone mountains. Legend states that the lake is where fairies descend to swim. We cannot confirm or deny the fairies. The lake is genuinely beautiful.

After Fairy Lake Cave, we sailed through the eastern section of Ha Long Bay — passing Trong Cave, Trinh Nu Cave — to a small islet with a beach for swimming and kayaking. The kayaking around the bay, through passages between the karsts at water level, is one of the most distinctive physical experiences of the cruise — the scale of the limestone formations is completely different when you are sitting in a kayak looking up at them than when you are standing on the sun deck looking across at them.

A substantial lunch aboard the day boat — Vietnamese and international dishes that kept arriving for longer than seemed plausible — was followed by an afternoon visit to Me Cung (Maze) Cave on Lom Bo Island, with options to hike to the summit for panoramic views. The views from the summit rewarded those who made the climb.

Return to the Emeraude, freshly made banana French crepes with chocolate sauce on the sun deck, and Happy Hour — the established daily rhythm of the cruise that we had entirely adopted by Day Two.

Day Three — Tai Chi, Titov Island and Farewell

A final Tai Chi class on the sun deck at dawn. Titov Island and the 427 steps to the summit. The view from the top — Ha Long Bay in every direction, the Emeraude visible below at the pier, the karsts extending to every horizon. Brunch aboard. Check out of the cabin. The slow sail back toward Ha Long City.

We were quiet on the return. Ha Long Bay has a way of doing that.

The Third Legend — Who Was the Legend Who Sailed on Emeraude?

Season 8 of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown was filmed in Ha Long Bay aboard the Emeraude. For those unfamiliar with the name, Anthony Bourdain was an American chef and television personality who spent decades travelling the world filming his food and travel adventures for the series A Cook’s Tour, No Reservations and Parts Unknown. He became one of the most beloved travel writers of his generation — not because he was a conventional travel writer, but because he was honest about what he found and genuinely interested in the people who lived in the places he visited.

Bourdain walked the docks of Ha Long City looking for the right boat for his episode. He found the Emeraude. He hired it for himself and his friends. During his time on board, he stayed in the Paul Roque Suite and visited one of the local fishing villages — the villagers of which have since been relocated back to land at the Vietnamese government’s request. The episode remains one of the finest pieces of television about Vietnam. Bourdain took his own life in France in 2018 while filming another episode of Parts Unknown. He was 62 years old.

You can book the Paul Roque Suite — the cabin where Bourdain stayed — on the Emeraude. It is available to book directly through emeraude-cruises.com.

The world lost a special person in 2018.

Other Ha Long Bay Cruise Options

The Emeraude is our personal recommendation for a distinctive and historically grounded Ha Long Bay experience — but it is one option among many. Here is an honest overview of the broader cruise market.

Budget cruises (USD $110–160 per person per night): Smaller wooden vessels with standard cabins, shared facilities and the same cave and kayaking activities as more expensive options. The scenery is identical. Food is simpler. The experience is more basic but perfectly acceptable for travellers prioritising cost. Always check safety certifications before booking a budget cruise — quality varies significantly at this price point.

Mid-range cruises (USD $145–250 per person per night): The sweet spot for most travellers — comfortable private cabins often with balconies, better dining, more activities and improved service. Operators like Bhaya Classic and Paradise Sails consistently receive strong reviews at this price point. Mid-range cruises deliver approximately 80% of the luxury experience at 40% of the cost. 

Luxury cruises (USD $250–450 per person per night): High-end vessels with private balconies, refined cuisine, spa facilities and personalised service. Heritage Binh Chuan and Paradise Elegance are consistently cited as among the finest in this category.

Ultra-luxury (USD $450–980+ per person per night): The finest vessels operating on Ha Long Bay — the Stellar of the Seas being the most frequently mentioned at the top tier. Private butler service, resort-level facilities on the water.

The Emeraude (mid-range to luxury): The Emeraude occupies a distinctive position in the Ha Long Bay cruise market — it is not the largest, not the newest and not the cheapest. What it offers is something no other cruise can: the specific history of Eric Merlin’s Paris flea market postcard, the French colonial aesthetic executed with genuine care, the Anthony Bourdain connection and the continuing fidelity to the original Indochina paddle steamer tradition. For travellers who value a story alongside their scenery, it is in a category of its own.

Book your Emeraude cruise here

What Does a Ha Long Bay Cruise Cost? A 2026 Budget Guide

Cruise pricing per person:

Day cruise (4–8 hours): USD $50–120 (approximately AUD $77–185).

1-night cruise (2 days): Budget USD $110–160 per person; mid-range USD $145–250 per person; luxury USD $250–450 per person (all approximately AUD $170–248 / $224–387 / $387–697).

2-night cruise (3 days): Budget USD $220–280 per person; mid-range USD $280–390 per person; luxury USD $340–600 per person (all approximately AUD $340–433 / $433–603 / $526–928).

The Emeraude Classic 2026 pricing: Based on current market positioning, the Emeraude sits in the mid-range to lower-luxury tier — approximately USD $200–400 per person for the 2-night cruise, depending on cabin type.

Hidden costs to budget for: Drinks are typically not included in standard cruise packages — budget USD $3–5 for a local beer, USD $25–60 for wine.

Tips: USD $3–5 per person per day for the crew (pool tip jar at check-out) plus USD $5–10 directly to your guide if exceptional. A couple on a 2-night cruise should budget approximately USD $30–50 for tips total.

Seasonal pricing: Peak season (October–April) runs 15–30% higher than low season. Low season (June–August) offers the deepest discounts — up to 40% off on some cruises — but with a higher chance of weather disruptions. The single best month for value combined with good weather is September.

Transport from Hanoi: Return transfer is typically included in cruise packages. If booking independently, the public bus from Hanoi My Dinh station to Ha Long City costs approximately VND 120,000–200,000 (USD $5–8 / AUD $8–12) each way.

Ha Long Bay entry fees: A Ha Long Bay management fee of 290,000 VND per adult (approximately USD $11.60 / AUD $17.90) is payable on entry. This is almost always included in your cruise package, but check before booking.

Practical Tips for Ha Long Bay

Book well in advance for peak season (November–March). The finest cruise vessels on Ha Long Bay fill up months ahead during the cooler, clearer months. The Emeraude, with only 80 passenger capacity, is particularly prone to selling out on weekends and Vietnamese public holidays.

Do not arrive in Hanoi the morning of your cruise departure. The transfer from Hanoi takes 3–4 hours and cruises board at noon. The most common mistake is booking a flight that arrives in Hanoi in the morning and attempting to connect directly to the cruise. You will miss it. Arrive in Hanoi the night before.

Set your alarm for dawn. The two finest moments of the Ha Long Bay cruise experience — sunrise on the water and the morning mist burning off the karsts — both happen before 7 am. Sleeping in is the greatest mistake available to a cruise passenger.

Dress for variable conditions. Ha Long Bay can be cool and misty in the morning, even in September and October. The sun on the open deck from 10 am onward is intense. Layers are the right approach — a light jacket for dawn, sunscreen and sunglasses from mid-morning.

The Tai Chi class is worth getting up for. We know this sounds obvious. It is not obvious at 6 am when the alarm goes off. Get up anyway.

The caves are best visited in the morning. Tour groups concentrate between 10 am and 2 pm. Arriving at any cave before 10 am gives you a significantly different and more peaceful experience.

Tipping is expected. The crew on any Ha Long Bay cruise — especially the kitchen staff, cabin cleaners and excursion guides — work long hours for modest wages. Tipping via the crew pool jar at check-out is standard practice and genuinely appreciated.

Where to Stay in Hanoi Before Your Ha Long Bay Cruise

During our time in Hanoi, we stayed at two properties and can recommend both. The 5-star Pullman Hanoi is closer to the Temple of Literature and ideal for those spending multiple days in the capital before departing for Ha Long Bay — the pool was an excellent way to recover after long sightseeing days. The 3-star Trang Trang Boutique Hotel in the Old Quarter is ideal for those who want to be in the heart of the old town. Read our full Hanoi accommodation guide here.

A Final Note on Two Nights on Ha Long Bay

We returned to Hanoi on the third afternoon and were quiet in the minibus for most of the journey back. Ha Long Bay does something to you that is difficult to fully articulate — it instils a particular quality of stillness that the cities of Vietnam do not. The caves and the karsts and the legends and the dawn mist and the sound of the water against the hull at night all add up to something that exceeds the sum of its parts.

The Emeraude contributed something specific to that experience — the knowledge of Eric Merlin finding those postcards in Paris in December 1999 and deciding to build what he found gave the voyage a particular quality of intentionality. Every wooden panel, every vintage-style fitting, every French crepe on the sun deck was a deliberate act of reconstruction. Ha Long Bay did not need a paddle steamer to be extraordinary. But the paddle steamer made the extraordinary feel, also, somehow, like history.

Go. Give it two nights. Set the alarm for dawn. Attend the Tai Chi class. Climb the 427 steps of Titov Island. And book the Paul Roque Suite if it is available — because Anthony Bourdain was right about this one, as he was right about most things.

Frequently Asked Questions About Ha Long Bay

Is Ha Long Bay worth visiting?

Completely and without reservation, it is one of the genuinely unmissable experiences in all of Vietnam and one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes we have encountered in 70 countries of travel. The photographs do not fully prepare you for the scale. The day cruises give you a taste. The overnight cruise gives you the experience itself. Go.

How many days should I spend on Ha Long Bay?

One night is the minimum for a proper experience — arriving at noon, sleeping on the water and returning to Hanoi the following afternoon. Two nights is our personal recommendation — it gives you time to settle into the rhythm of the bay rather than simply observe it. Three nights reach the less-visited areas of Bai Tu Long Bay that shorter cruises cannot access. A day cruise from Hanoi is worthwhile if time is genuinely limited, but it covers only a fraction of the bay.

What is the best time to visit Ha Long Bay?

October to April is the peak season with the clearest skies, calmest water and most comfortable temperatures — but also the highest prices and busiest boats. September and October offer the best combination of good weather and manageable crowds. May to August is the rainy season with regular afternoon showers and occasionally rough water — but prices are 20–40% lower, and the bay is significantly less crowded. January and February bring occasional fog and mist that make the bay extraordinarily atmospheric — though some activities may be limited.

Should I choose Ha Long Bay or Lan Ha Bay?

Both are part of the same karst landscape, and both are extraordinary. Ha Long Bay is closer to Hanoi (2.5 hours transfer) and has more cruise infrastructure, but it is busier. Lan Ha Bay requires a slightly longer transfer (3–3.5 hours) and costs USD $20–50 less per person at equivalent quality with significantly fewer boats. For a 1-night cruise, Ha Long Bay is the simpler choice. For a 2-night cruise where you have time to reach the quieter sections, Lan Ha Bay is worth serious consideration.

How do I get from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay?

Most visitors travel by organised coach transfer — included in the cruise package — departing Hanoi at approximately 7:30–8:30 am and arriving at the Ha Long City pier at approximately 11:00–11:30 am. Budget travellers can take the public bus from Hanoi My Dinh station for approximately USD $5–8 each way. A seaplane service (USD $150–200 per person one way) also operates from Noi Bai Airport to Ha Long Bay — a spectacular if expensive way to arrive.

Is it safe to cruise Ha Long Bay?

Yes — Ha Long Bay cruise safety has improved significantly following tighter Vietnamese government regulations introduced after a series of accidents in the early 2010s. All licensed cruise operators undergo regular safety inspections. Choose a reputable licensed operator, check that your vessel has current safety certificates, and always wear a life jacket when instructed to do so during kayaking excursions. The Emeraude specifically has been updated with advanced safety management technology alongside its vintage décor.

What is included in the cruise price?

Most mid-range and luxury cruise packages include: return transfer from Hanoi, all meals during the cruise (breakfast, lunch and dinner), excursions and cave entry fees, kayaking and swimming activities, onboard activities (cooking class, Tai Chi), welcome drinks and the Ha Long Bay management fee. What is typically excluded: alcoholic drinks beyond the welcome drink, extra soft drinks, spa treatments, tips and laundry. Always check exactly what is included before booking.

What is the Emeraude, and why is it special?

The Emeraude is a vintage paddle steamer modelled on a French colonial vessel that once sailed Ha Long Bay in the early 20th century. The story of its creation — French businessman Eric Merlin finding postcards of the original at a Paris flea market in 1999 and commissioning a replica — is one of the most extraordinary backstories of any vessel operating anywhere in the world. It was also the vessel chosen by Anthony Bourdain for Season 8 of Parts Unknown. The Emeraude now operates under Emeraude Cruises (Thien Minh Group) with a capacity of 80 passengers across 39 cabins. Book directly at emeraude-cruises.com.

Do I need a visa for Vietnam?

Most international travellers need either a visa or qualify for a visa exemption. Citizens of Germany, France, Italy, Spain, the UK, Russia, Japan, South Korea, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland and Belarus qualify for a 45-day visa-free exemption. Australian, US, Canadian, and most other nationalities need an e-Visa available at evisa.gov.vn for approximately USD $25. Apply at least two weeks before departure. From 1 July 2026, all international travellers must complete an online health declaration within seven days before entering Vietnam.

Is Ha Long Bay suitable for families with children?

Yes — Ha Long Bay is an excellent family destination. The caves are genuinely exciting for children, the kayaking is manageable for older children, and the breakfast spread on the sun deck with Ha Long Bay in every direction is the kind of morning that children and adults alike find memorable. Check with your chosen cruise operator about minimum age requirements for specific activities and about the availability of family cabins or connecting rooms. Most operators accommodate children warmly.

General Travel Information

Related Reading:

Things to do in Hanoi

How to Get To Ha Long Bay

When is the best time to visit Vietnam

Vietnam Travel Planning

Planning your next trip? Make it easier (and more enjoyable) with our range of downloadable and digital travel planning guides, designed to help you stay organised every step of the way. From our popular 50+ Travellers Travel Planning Guide to family and multi-generational planners, plus our AI prompts for finding cheaper airfares, these easy-to-use guides are perfect for turning travel ideas into reality.

👉 Visit our shop to explore and download your travel planning guides today.

Join our new Facebook Group – Vietnam Travel Planning – We created our new group to assist you in planning your next vacation in Vietnam.

Check out our YouTube Video of our 2 Night/3 Day Cruise onboard Emeraude.

Travelling Around Asia

For the latest fares and schedules on buses, trains and ferries throughout Asia we use 12goAsia – click here for more information.

Flight Deals to Vietnam

Find the cheapest flights with Skyscanner our “go-to” for researching and booking flights.

Travel Insurance

Travel is full of unforgettable moments — but sometimes the unexpected happens too. That’s why we always recommend travelling with insurance. Ekta Travel Insurance offers flexible coverage options to help protect your trip, so you can focus on enjoying the adventure ahead.

Do you need an e-SIM?

🌎 Travel Smarter with Saily eSIM

Need data on the go? Saily eSIM makes it easy to stay connected without swapping physical SIM cards. Purchase your eSIM before you travel and enjoy 5% off with our exclusive discount code totraveltoo. Purchase here

Pinterest

Are you on Pinterest? We at To Travel Too have many travel-related boards. Check us out on Pinterest.  If you enjoyed our article on our 2-night cruise on Halong Bay, why not pin it to your board?.

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